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The area around the town of Ragusa is a lovely region that makes Tuscans exclaim, “My goodness, it looks just like Tuscany!” The Sicilians would reply that Tuscans are lucky to live in a place that looks like il ragusano! Well, no matter what part of the globe you hail from, we think you will agree that the territory stretching from Siracusa to Modica is utterly charming. As you wend your way past hill and dale, you will be hard-pressed to find one piece of litter along the road. What you will see is lush forests, golden fields divided by pure-white low dry stonewalls, silvery olive groves whence come oils that have consistently won the top world awards in recent years, dark green vineyards that also yield world-class wines, miles and miles of gleaming citrus groves, the occasional flash of a clear blue sea, all combining to create breathtaking vistas as far as the eye can see. And since we are in Italy, after all, it just wouldn’t be hill country if it didn’t have hill towns! And do we have hill towns! We have them in spades! But unlike Tuscany and Umbria, the villages you will find here are not of medieval or Renaissance vintage. No, they represent the absolute global peak of Baroque extravagance, and they are as sublime as they are unforgettable. Leading the pack are Modica, Noto and Ragusa Ibla, but there are countless others (such as Comiso, with its twin churches visible from miles away) that are secondary only when compared to this Royal Triumvirate. If you have any interest at all in history and architecture, you should really try to plan for a trip to this region, whose friendly residents are fiercely proud of their incredibly complex heritage, which includes genealogical donations from the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Moors, the Normans, the Spaniards, the French, the Austrians … and probably a few more passersby that we have neglected to mention. These present-day descendants are hard workers, but they also know how to play, and you will find almost every one of them on the street in the late afternoon, nibbling yummy local sweets at the café or strolling arm-in-arm for their daily passeggiata . They may not speak your language but you will find it is impossible not to communicate with them, and they will be very happy to welcome you to this, Italy’s next great tourist discovery. We advise you to get here soon, before the tour buses find it!
In case you’re wondering why so much Baroque glory is hiding down in the hills of southeastern Sicily, it’s because of an earthquake that devastated the area in the late 17 th century. Almost every building was destroyed beyond use, including the many churches in this very religious parish. Since there were also quite a few wealthy families here, what ensued was a sort of undeclared battle to see who could build the finest church and with it, the finest homes for the aristocracy who populated the towns. At that time, Baroque architecture was all the rage, and so the transformation began. Today the three major towns are as different as they can be considering they were essentially rebuilt from the ground up at the same time by the same architects. Noto is generally considered the winner of the battle. It is the largest of the three, whose 17 th-century pearls shine amongst the 21 st-century context of a bustling market town. Ragusa Ibla is perhaps the most magical, because it is exceedingly tiny and unfolds along the flanks of three hills, and since there is also a modern Ragusa, Ibla is pure Baroque through and through. Its citizens are doing everything possible to keep it from becoming no more than a tourist destination, and we imagine they will succeed. The best time to visit is at twilight, so that you can also be there after dark when the lights go on.
To be perfectly honest, our favorite of the three towns is Modica, because it combines exquisite architecture with modern everyday life, so you can get a real feel for what life is like in this part of the world, at the same time that you’re getting your art and history lessons. You will find cars in Modica, but there is really only one street they can drive on, so they are not likely to annoy you too much. The locals mostly get around on foot, and they are helped by countless secret stairways that connect one layer of houses with the next layer up the hill. Once you step off the main drag onto one of these staircases, there’s no reason on earth to think you are in the 21 st century. Any urban noise quickly drops off and all you hear is the sound of your own footsteps (and perhaps a little huffing and puffing if you are not in the very best of shape!). About halfway up one of these staircases is a short side street, at the end of which is a noble palazzo with a green door that leads to a delightful guesthouse owned by a congenial young man who speaks excellent English and is dying to help you discover the land of his ancestors. He is Giovanni, and this is Casa Modica B&B.
There are only four rooms and three apartments here, so you will never find more than 15 or so people enjoying breakfast in the picturesque ancient kitchen or on the terrace overlooking the lemon garden. A long hall unites the wings, one for apartments and one for rooms: all is spotless and sunny, furnished with a savvy and saucy mix of authentic family heirlooms and sleek Italian moderns. There is air conditioning throughout, and each room or apartment has plenty of space to put your belongings, plus a very modern bathroom with good stall shower, magnifying mirror and hair dryer. Wireless Internet access is available as well, and Giovanni is a great art lover, so you will also find works that have been in this house for centuries alongside others produced by well-known contemporary masters. If you gain the impression that you are in the ancestral home of a curious, cultivated and hospitable Sicilian family, then you are spot on. The family no longer lives here, but their personality can be felt in every nook and cranny. One on side of the entryway is the apartment wing. Here you will find A, th e smallest, but undoubtedly the most charming, furnished with a daybed, armchair and a folding table, ingeniously designed to look like a framed picture when closed. There is also a kitchenette and a balcony furnished with table, chair and sun chairs overlooking the garden. The bathroom has a stall shower and above, on a loft under the ceiling, the queen sized bed lies beneath a fresco from the mid-1800’s. B is larger, with a separate kitchen and bathroom, a living room with single sofa bed, armchair and table, a terrace over the lemon grove and, upstairs, a queen bed beneath an unforgettable ceiling frescoed with zodiac signs, landscapes and floral motifs. The entrance to C is a small glass-roofed room, off of which open the kitchen and the living room. The latter is furnished with wicker and cottonwood chairs, a daybed, a small table and a console that opens to become an ample dining table; outside is a small balcony. A triptych by a well-known contemporary artist decorates the walls. Up to four guests can share this apartment, for the bedroom has two wrought-iron twin beds under a platform with two more beds. This room also has a painted ceiling.
The four rooms are on the other side of the entry. D has two hand-painted wrought-iron twin beds, a sliding door to the bathroom, and a small, well-furnished balcony. E is the red room. There is a large built-in wardrobe, a built-in queen bed, and French doors to a small, well-furnished terrace that is shared with D. The two rooms can be connected to form a two-bedroom, two-bathroom suite. A prominent feature of the E room is its beautiful triptych, the work of an important contemporary Italian artist. F is as green as E is red. It has a pair of cast-iron twin beds, as well as chairs designed by one of the most celebrated Art Nouveau architects. The hand-made table, designed by the same architect who was responsible for restoring the house, contains a concealed mini-bar. Last but surely not least is G, the “yellow room.” It has a queen bed and, behind a screen, a single daybed. Two windows overlook the neighboring roofs, while the walls are graced by the graphic works of another important Italian painter.
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| Nightly Rates for 2008 (per room) Two-Night Minimum Stay | |
|---|---|
| Includes taxes, services & breakfast | |
| A or B (1 person) | 88.00 EURO |
| A or B (2 people) | 126.00 EURO |
| A or B (3 people) | 140.00 EURO |
| C (2 people) | 126.00 EURO |
| C (3 people) | 154.00 EURO |
| C (4 people) | 176.00 EURO |
| D, E, F or G (1 person) | 70.00 EURO |
| D (2 people) | 88.00 EURO |
| E, F or G (2 people) | 96.00 EURO |
| G (3 people) | 120.00 EURO |
The reception is open 8-11am and 5-8pm. It is not possible to check-in at other times unless by previous arrangement.
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