Il Patriarca

Once upon a time, after World War Two and before agriturismo, there used to be a charming custom in Italy and other European countries. You've probably seen it at least once in an old black-and-white movie. City folks - weary parents, bored businessmen, even clandestine lovers - would get in the car on a Friday afternoon and drive out to the country for a great home-cooked meal. The repast entailed several courses and perhaps as many bottles of wine, and when it was over the satisfied gourmands would exchange glances with the innkeeper, who would nod discretely and lead the way up a flight of stairs to a pleasantly furnished room where the drapes could be drawn and the cares of the world forgotten, replaced by a wonderful night's sleep. In the old days, few such restaurants were as renowned in Italy as Il Patriarca, partly because the hearty Tuscan food was reliable, and partly because it was exactly halfway between Rome and Florence, a mere 200 yards from the autostrada exit, yet totally shielded from its sights and sounds by a tranquil cypress-lined hill.

As we all know, places that were famous in the 60s usually leave a lot to be desired in the new millennium. Il Patriarca was no exception. When it was bought in 1999 by Loris Mozzini, it still had its good bones and beautifully landscaped one-acre park, but it looked like it hadn't been touched in ages. Even the menu hadn't changed. As illustrious as its laurels had been, it could no longer rest comfortably on them, so Loris and his family decided to undertake a massive renovation that would transform the outdated property into one of the most fascinating gourmet inns in the whole country. The makeover began by gutting the entire structure, which had originally been built atop the ruins of an upper-class Etruscan enclave. For centuries these fascinating remains had been buried in the earth: now they can be seen through several glass-covered holes carved into the floor. Loris created a wine-tasting cellar inside the vaulted underground rooms of one 2500-year-old villa, and it wasn't long before he was rewarded with a coveted Michelin Star.

After two years, the renovations restored the building to its origins as an extremely refined private mansion. The ground floor is broken up into a succession of intimate rooms - the reception, a cocktail bar, two sitting rooms, a cigar room, and your host's pride and joy, I Salotti, the superb restaurant that has put Il Patriarca back on the map. Here, the Chef practices what we might call Cuisine As Art, producing an unending array of innovative dishes that the sommelier accompanies with one of the 1100 wines on his list. With only fifteen tables in their realm, these two artists are able to take exquisite care of their guests. They even offer a wine cart, which allows you to accompany each course of your meal with a glass of fine wine, without having to purchase five whole bottles.

Just as in the old days, you can still slip upstairs after dinner. But there is one difference now: Il Patriarca has twenty-four rooms, and with the name it has made for itself in just a few years, you'd better not hope Loris will have one available at the last minute. Reserve well in advance and you will be treated to a cozy den in the Villa, or a drop-dead elegant lair in the Nervi Wing, designed by Pier Luigi Nervi, one of the greatest architects of the 20th century. Both superior and deluxe rooms have elegant antique furniture, direct-dial telephone, air conditioning, satellite TV, pay-TV, safe, desk with Internet station, and mini-bar. Deluxe rooms are larger and have two armchairs. Junior suites have a bedroom, a separate sitting area with single or double sofabed, and bathroom. Every room has lots of shelves and hanging space and state-of-the-art soundproofing, as well as private bathrooms lined with marble and featuring good lighting, either a built-in shower with oversize shower head or a bathtub, hair dryer, magnifying mirror and courtesy set. Non-smoking rooms are available. Cinema buffs may want to reserve the Fellini Suite or Masina Suite - his is blue and hers is pink, and each has a sitting area, an alcove with desk, and a big bed (Masina's bed has a canopy). The marble in Fellini's bathroom (which he used regularly, by the way, as this was one of his favorite retreats) is lined with just one piece of very rare marble.

In the morning, throw open your windows and take a deep breath of fresh Tuscan air. You might like to take a jog or a quick walk on the 2-km private track, which winds beneath umbrella pines and through the formal garden. Then reward yourself with a delicious a la carte breakfast and set off for a day exploring the neighborhood, which includes Montepulciano, Pienza, Chiusi, Montalcino and Perugia. Siena, Assisi and Cortona are also within an hour's drive. Or just relax beside the gorgeous infinity pool. Wherever you decide to go, have only a light lunch, because you'll want to save plenty of room for dinner at I Salotti. It's a Michelin-star non-smoking restaurant, but smokers are not outcasts here. They can enjoy a break between courses or after the meal in the elegant fumoir.

In Italy Online charges no booking fees or hidden extras.
Click here for more information about our services.

Click here for details about Italian lodgings.

Special Offer in Low Season!
Stay at least five nights and get one night free 

Nightly B&B Rates for 2008 (per room) Two-Night Minimum Stay
Includes taxes, services & breakfast
	Low Season Jan.7-March 19 Nov. 5-Dec. 4 Dec. 10-23	High Season March 20-Nov. 4 Dec. 5-9 Dec. 24-Jan. 6, 2009
Double Room for Single Use	80.00 EURO	100.00 EURO
Standard Double Villa Wing	120.00 EURO	150.00 EURO
Superior Double Nervi Wing	150.00 EURO	185.00 EURO
Deluxe Double Nervi Wing	165.00 EURO	195.00 EURO
Junior Suite (2 people) Nervi or Villa	190.00 EURO	215.00 EURO
Junior Suite (3 people) Villa Wing	200.00 EURO	230.00 EURO
Junior Suite (4 people) Villa Wing	220.00 EURO	250.00 EURO
Suite (Fellini or Masina) Nervi Wing	265.00 EURO	300.00 EURO
Half Board	30 EURO/person/day plus beverages

If you are planning to enjoy your first evening's dinner at I Salotti, please ask us to reserve in advance for you. The restaurant is open mid-April to mid-October, and is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Click here to see a sample menu.

Click here for information about half-day cooking lessons, pizza lessons or wine lessons.

Although the autostrada is very nearby, it is absolutely impossible to see or hear it from the hotel.

Click here for information about private transfers to the property.

Please note that you need a car to stay here.