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Val d'Orcia Country House Authentic Italy - Best-Value Lodgings - Green Vacations - Culinary Luminaries |
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In southern Tuscany sits an ancient fortress that can be seen for miles, across an unforgettable panorama stretching from Mt. Amiata to Lake Bolsena, the Chiana Valley and the Orcia Valley. The fortress has been here since as early as 978, was then enlarged in the13th century, rebuilt in the second half of the 16th century, and finally destroyed by an act of arson in 1735. In this area, the fortress is legendary, as is its erstwhile owner, Ghino di Tacco, a firebrand student who was exiled from Siena at the end of the 12th century, moved into the castle and became the local Robin Hood. As swift as he was ferocious, he would swoop down on the nearby Via Francigena, the pilgrims' route to Rome, relieve merchants and pilgrims of their riches and possessions, and redistribute them to the poor. Recently, the small fort and the quadrangular keep have been restored, and both the fortress and the adjacent village of Radicofani are worth a visit. Inside the 12th-century romanesque church of San Pietro is a splendid collection of della Robbia terracottas. Close to the village you will spot a beautiful Medici villa that was originally a hunting lodge. A bit farther along you will come to the ancient village of Contignano: once property of the Salimbeni family, it retains its medieval layout, complete with its castle surrounded by the remains of an ancient moat. None of these places can rival Florence or Siena or Cortona, of course, but such is the magic of Tuscany: every inch of its territory has witnessed centuries of history. You can join the crowds at the more famous spots or you can have the lesser known sites all to yourself. Few parts of the region are as perfect for the latter pursuit as Val D'Orcia, where this classic farmhouse offers you the best of Tuscan hospitality.
The Country House started its life in 1720, when a wealthy Sienese family built it to be their hunting lodge. The paved semi-circle in front of the main door, which today serves as a sunny patio for breakfast or late afternoon drinks, was originally the staging ground where horses, men and dogs prepared for their raucous days. The stunning cypresses which line the long driveway are actually older than the house, many of them having been planted to delineate the Via Francigena of which Ghino di Tacco was so fond. The 10-acre property stayed in the same family for over a century, after which it passed through a succession of hands until it was acquired by Silvano and Eliana, a husband and wife who have both had successful careers in the hospitality industry. When they retreated here, it was to offer a different kind of welcome, such as the one given by grandmothers when their broods come home for the weekend. As you step out of your 21st-century car, your nose is likely to pick up the mouthwatering aromas of local delicacies that have been prepared by Tuscan grannies forever and ever. These will be served to you that evening, next to the fireplace in the book-lined dining room, or under a blanket of stars, depending on what time of year you are here. More than just good food is on hand at dinnertime, too, because most of the other guests also choose to dine here and with a maximum of 25 people, it quickly becomes a family-like affair.
Are you hoping to find multiple plugs for your computers, video games and iPods? Will you be unable to detach from the evening news on CNN? If so, you'd better not head for the Country House, because its owners have intentionally kept it as low-tech as possible. There is wireless Internet access in most rooms, and there's a telephone at the front desk, but that's where it stops! You will have to forget about the stock market, the Middle East, politics, the price of oil and Britney's latest antics -- your only hope will be to sunbathe by the gorgeous swimming pool, nestle in next to the fireplace with a great book, or take a long walk in the ancient woods (with no fear of encountering a latter-day Ghino!). After a day of ferreting out unforgettable Tuscan treasures, you will retire to your room, which also might look like something a Tuscan Grandma designed: handmade lace curtains and doilies, embroidered chintz bedspreads, hundred-year-old wrought-iron bedsteads, oversized wooden armoires and dressers, simple tile floors, all illuminated by big windows through which to view that endless valley. Eight double rooms are upstairs (20 steps up from the ground floor); in two of these rooms you can choose from a queen bed or two twin beds, while all the others have one king bed. On the ground floor there is one room that can be a king or twins. Every room has a small but modern bathroom with stall shower and hair dryer. There is also an adorable cottage 10 yards from the main house, which has an eat-in kitchen, two double bedrooms (no twins) and two bathrooms.
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Also available: Four-Night Self-Guided Tour of Southern Tuscany
Special Offer only for In Italy Online guests!
Stay at least five nights and enjoy a complimentary welcome dinner
CLOSED JANUARY 1 - FEBRUARY 28
For this property:
One child 0-6 years old stays free in his parents' double room.
Dinner or lunch costs 35 Euro/person plus beverages.
Click here for information about half-day cooking lessons, pizza lessons or wine lessons nearby.
Please note that you need a car to stay here.
It is not possible to guarantee Internet access at any property, because the property does not generate the service, it merely provides access from a server. If the server experiences any kind of problem at all, the property regrets it cannot be responsible for any inconvenience caused by subsequent lack of service.
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