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[Regions of Italy] 
[Back to Campania]
Last fall I found myself in the kitchen of Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi, a tiny village at the western tip of the Amalfi coast. I went with a group of food and wine professionals assembled from six countries to meet the restaurant's chef and proprietor, Alfonso Iaccarino. The restaurant is noted in part for its beautiful azure dining rooms, its picturesque Mediterranean garden and the ancient Roman tunnels that house its wine cellar. But we had not come for the setting. We came for the food, in particular a famed dessert of eggplant and chocolate.
Only a man so passionate about food and so confident of his opinions as Alfonso would prepare such an unorthodox dish for a gathering of international foodies. Alfonso's passion and confidence about food inspire controversy among professionals and ordinary diners alike, and they make a trip to his restaurant memorable.
Alfonso runs the restaurant with the assistance of his wife, Livia, and what seems like a cast of thousands. Because he believes in using the freshest local ingredients raised without chemicals or preservatives, and he always works within the traditions of the region, virtually all of the food prepared in his kitchens comes from Le Pecciarole, his farm in nearby Punta Campanella. Other food, especially seafood, and many of the wines in their cellar, are produced by local fishermen, farmers, artisans and winemakers. It seems that almost everyone in the region somehow contributes to the cuisine of Don Alfonso.
Alfonso's
emphasis on local ingredients and regional traditions leads to quite unexpected results. American notions
of Neapolitan cuisine must be discarded (which is probably a good idea in any event). Alfonso has taken the
time to look back at the history of the region and the country to find the essence of traditional cooking.
The results are often surprising. Garlic and tomato play only a secondary role. Beef is served with raisins.
Chocolate is paired with eggplant.
After watching Alfonso in the kitchen, our group proceeded to the dining room to taste the results of the staff's labors. Alfonso and Livia joined us at the table and added further explanations as lunch was served. It began with Treccine di Pesce Azzurro agli Ortaggi Autunnali in Leggero Carpione: braided strips of bluefish fillet served atop julienned carrots, celery and onion in a warm oil and vinegar dressing. The dish was pretty to look at, yet quite simple, reflecting traditional fish preparations used by peasants in the region for many years.
Next came the pasta, Ravioli di Caciotta al Pomodorino e Basilico. The pasta itself was made with flour and olive oil, instead of flour and eggs as is typical in most of Italy. The caciotta, a cheese filling made from sheep's milk, was seasoned with fresh marjoram (which grows wild on the hillsides of Campania). The ravioli were lightly dressed with "sauce:" a small amount of chopped tomato sauteed lightly in olive oil. Basil leaves were sprinkled on top. I generally find pasta with olive oil to be less appealing than egg pasta, and this was no exception. However, Alfonso feels it is more important to follow the regional tradition, which stems from the fact that chickens and eggs were relatively scarce until recent times. The herbed cheese was the highlight of the dish.
The principal course was Braciola di Annecchia con Uvetta e Pinoli su Crema di Pomodoro e Scarola: strips of sirloin of baby beef had been spread with pine nuts, raisins, parsley and garlic and then rolled up. The "roll ups" were baked in a hot oven with olive oil and tomato sauce. Separately, a sauce of escarole, pine nuts, raisins and garlic was made and the "roll ups" were served on top of this sauce. Alfonso had reached back to the noble traditions of Medieval and Renaissance times, when red meat was often accompanied by raisins and pine nuts.
Finally came the exotic-sounding dessert: Pasticcio di Melanzane con Cioccolata: squares of sponge cake were topped with sweetened ricotta cheese studded with candied fruit and chocolate pieces. Slices of steamed eggplant were placed on top of the ricotta mixture, then the whole thing was covered with a white chocolate sauce flavored with Marsala. The dish was pleasant enough, by no means as startling as the name might imply. I have the recipe, but I don't think I'll be using it. Still, I'm glad I got to try eggplant and chocolate.
Sims Brannon
Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890, 11 Piazza Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi (tel. 081-878-0026, fax 081-533-0026). Reservations necessary. Closed Monday (high season) or Tuesday (low season), also January and February. Very expensive.
[Regions of Italy] [Back to Campania]