Places to Eat in Naples
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Ristorante Umberto has received the Historical Places of Italy award. Located in Naples' beautiful Chiaja seaside neighborhood, it offers traditional seafood and pizza, as well as vegeterian and gluten-free menus. Massimo and his sisters, whose family have been running it since 1916, are as nice as can be, and offer 10% off all meals when you make advance reservations. Via Alabardieri 30-31, near Piazza dei Martiri. Tel. 081/418-555 or click here to visit their website.

Many thanks to our friend Kyle Phillips, who writes Cosa Bolle in Pentola (a wonderfully entertaining food newsletter). Kyle translated some of the latest restaurant picks of Panorama, an Italian weekly national magazine. Try one or more of them next time you are in this Capital of Delicious Dining.

La Bersagliera (3 temples and a star from Panorama) -- Founded in 1919 and a classic, located in a beautifully panoramic spot. Expensive too (70,000/person plus wines); Gambero gives it a good rating but says the service sometimes falters. Borgo Marinari, Tel 081 764 6016; closed Tuesdays and January

La Cantina di Triunfo (1 temple from Panorama) -- A trattoria, family run and homey, with Tina in the kitchen and her husband Carmine waiting. A wide selection of Neapolitan dishes difficult to find elsewhere. Inexpensive but no credit cards. Riviera di Chiaia 64, Tel 081 668 101, closed Sundays and August.

La Cantinella (3 temples from Panorama) -- Elegant restaurant with air conditioning and a nice view, the best in Naples according to Gambero. Via Cuma 42, Tel 081 764 8684, Expensive (85,000 plus wine) Closed Sunday and August.

La Chiaccherata (1 temple and a star from Panorama) -- a homey trattoria whose owners grow their own vegetables, located next to the Galleria Umberto. Open only for lunch; inexpensive (30,000). Porta Monte Serano 37, Tel 081 411 465.

Ciro a Santa Brigida (2 temples from Panorama) -- a classic Neapolitan restaurant with traditional specialties. Excellent local desserts too. Moderately expensive. Closed Sundays and in August. Via Santa Brigida 71/74, Tel 081 552 4072.

'A Fenestralla (1 temple from Panorama) -- Splendid view and fine traditional Neapolitan dishes; especially pretty at night. Moderately expensive. Closed Wednesdays, and Sundays too in summer. Via Marechiaro 23, Tel 081 769 0020

Mimì alla Ferrovia (3 temples and a star from Panorama) -- Splendid Neapolitan cuisine, some of the best in the city. The stuffed peppers are noted by both. Moderately expensive; Via Alfonso d'Aragona 21, Tel 081 553 8525.

Osteria della Mattonella -- A tiny trattoria high up in the city, with simple home cooking. Inexpensive (30,000), closed Sunday night and in August. Via Nicotera 13, Tel 081 416 541.

La Sacrestia (3 temples from Panorama) -- Beautiful terrace with a magnificent view of the bay, with fine food, especially fish. Closed Mondays, and Sundays too in summer. Expensive (80,000 + wine), Via Orazio 116, Tel 081 761 1051

Trianon -- Naples is famed for Pizza and Gambero says this is some of the best. Via Colletta 46, Closed Sunday at lunchtime. Inexpensive (20,000), Piazza Colletta 46, Tel 081 553 9426.

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