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[Regions of Italy]
Rome (and Italy) are automatically associated with their two most historically significant events, first the rise and fall of the Roman Empire and then, Rome's evolution as the center of Christianity. What most people do not know, or perhaps have forgotten, is that the Romans were only one of the ancient indigenous populations to inhabit the Italian peninsula and that Christianity was merely, in its early years, another one of a slew of Oriental cults, rivals in their attempts to make conversions, drawn to the capital from the outlying provinces of the Empire.
So, most people when traveling to Italy are automatically drawn to historical sites relating either to the former, the latter or a combination of both. They often fail to realize that archeological sites or other monuments may be neither Roman nor Christian, but actually an Etruscan settlement or a temple dedicated to Isis or Mithra instead of to Venus, Jupiter or a Christian saint. It is probably easier to recognize the difference outside of Rome, and you don't have to go far to find a sterling example.
Perhaps the closest, most beautiful and relatively undiscovered Etruscan archeological site is Sutri, a lovely little town just an hour from the Eternal City. We leave Rome on the Via Cassia, one of the ancient consular roads. Soon the apartment buildings and roadside construction are behind us and we find ourselves surrounded by lush dense vegetation. To our left are a series of tombs, marking the site of the ancient village.
The complex's singularly most impressive structure is the amphitheatre, completely carved out of local tufa stone. Although it is fairly small (roughly 50 X 40 yards), it faces the town as it did in ancient times, and offers an enchanting, almost mystical atmosphere. Opinions vary as to exactly when it was built, ranging from as early as the Etruscan archaic period to the first decades of the Christian era. Built on a north-south axis, it has two entrances at its farthest extremities, and its shape is slightly more oval than round. The entrance facing the north, toward the Via Cassia, is badly deteriorated. It leads to the arena floor. A tunnel, with five entrances still visible on each side, circles the area at its outer circumference, thus separating it from the spectators' section, the cavea, which was divided into three orders of tiers. A rectangular niche cut into the lowest section on the northwest side had its own private entrance and is believed to be the VIP seats, or what we might call the royal box.
One does not leave this amphitheatre overwhelmed, as is the case with Rome's Flavian Amphitheatre, usually known as the Coliseum. There is a more intimate, quiet feeling here.
Going out the same way we came in, we pass a series of Etruscan tombs, excavated out of rock on our right. These were the ones we saw from the road on arriving, and they constitute ancient Sutri's municipal cemetery. It extends for about 180 yards, dates from the ancient Roman period, and features all sorts of tombs including the single chamber, double chamber, arched entrance and rectangular niche varieties. Not all are visible, because many were badly damaged when used by local farmers as storage for farm equipment, or even as pig sties. Unfortunately, this practice has always been common in this area, as evidenced by the name of one site: Grotta Porcina (Pig Grotto).
One thing that sets this necropolis apart from most is that burial and cremation were practiced here simultaneously. Because of this, you'll see that some of the tombs you visit were used for burial, others hold cremation urns, and still others have both. This has led experts to surmise that the tombs were used again and again over successive periods of time. The tombs on today's street level were used for both rituals, originally for cremation and then for burial. Others on the same level or slightly higher up were primarily for cremation urns, while the highest ones were strictly for burial.
If, when leaving the amphitheatre, we turn left instead of right and skirt the wall for about 300 yards (on foot or by car), we will come to the most interesting tomb of all. Carved much deeper into the bedrock than the others, it is a perfect example of different uses in different eras - a typical Italian practice. After first belonging to wealthy Etruscans, it was used by the Romans, later converted into a temple by the Mithraic cult and finally adopted by the Christians. The first of its two rooms is small and square, and was probably a vestibule. The second room is long and rectangular, with three naves divided by two rows of pilasters carved of the same rock. At the base of the pilasters are rock benches which would have formed the reclining tables where participants at a Mithraic service consumed the meal that was part of the devotional rite. The whole structure displays many of the characteristics found in Mithraic temples: they were almost always underground, had faux grotto decorations, were poorly lit, and featured reclining benches on the two side aisles.
The Christians had a habit of building their churches atop Mithraic shrines (witness Rome's Santa Prisca and San Clemente) or above pagan temples (Rome's Santa Francesca Romana was built on the site of Augustus' Temple to Venus and Rome). Thus, in the 6th or 7th century AD, Sutri's Mithraic shrine became a church dedicated to the Madonna of Labor. The earliest frescoes in the church date from this period and are to be found on the two pilasters closest to the altar. Be sure to look for the conduit at eye level on the left pilaster: it was installed in ancient times to alleviate humidity in the tomb.
There are other frescoes here: they were painted in the 12th to 14th centuries and represent St. Christopher and St. Michael (in the vestibule) and the Madonna of Labor (in the apse behind the main altar).
Outside, you can drive back toward the Sutri turnoff and browse through several little antique shops (Sarah Bannister's and Il Tarlo are two choices), or have a peak at "modern" Sutri, or drive on to any of numerous other sites in the vicinity. One of the least known and most deserted is the recently restored Grotta Porcina, not more than twenty minutes farther along Via Cassia. It features countless caves excavated into the tufa cliffs, plus a large circular structure, perhaps a mausoleum or illustrious family's shrine. It dates from the 5th century BC. The area is wild and lush, perfect for a picnic lunch like I had, ensconced amidst the scotch brume. However, I suggest you remember to do your sightseeing before you set up your blankets and picnic hamper!
To drive to the complesso archeologico di Sutri, follow Via Cassia from Rome until you reach the modern town of Sutri. The site is marked by yellow signs that read sito archeologico, and is off to your left. Open (winter) Tues-Sun 9-2; (summer) Tues-Sun 9-7. To visit the Mithraeum, ask the custodians in front of the amphitheatre. No more than ten people are allowed inside at one time.The amphitheatre is wheelchair accessible.
If you'd like to stay overnight in the area, consider staying at Casa La Tuscia.
[Regions of Italy]