Monasteries and convents in Emilia Romagna and the Marches

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Since the time of the Crusades, this part of Italy has been full of sanctuaries and convents which offered hospitality to pilgrims. Here are some you might like to visit for a quiet hour or a few peaceful days. If you do plan to stay overnight, remember that these are most emphatically not hotels. They are spiritual retreats surrounded by the silent beauties of nature. Some charge a fixed price; others ask that you make a donation. Amenities are often less than basic: be sure to find out whether you need to bring your own sheets and towels.

Chiaravalle della Colomba. Visible from the Milan-Bologna autostrada, this large complex is in the town of Alseno. It has a lovely church and a wonderful cloister decorated with frescoes and dozens of marble columns, each different from the other. Although this was once a very rich abbey, it fell into disuse for quite a long time and has only recently been returned to the monks, who sing beautifully for services. It is not possible to stay overnight, but you can buy the monks' liqueurs, made from ancient secret recipes. To get there, park at the "Chiaravalle" rest stop on the A1 highway and walk along a delightful path for about 300 yards. Click here for their web site.

• Hermitage of Bismantova. Nestled into the steep rocky walls of a 4000-foot mountain near Reggio Emilia, this little retreat is home to only four Benedictine monks, who live a life of silence and prayer. You are welcome to visit the tiny Gothic church. One or two guests at a time (men only) are welcome, but you must reserve well in advance. Write to Eremo di Bismantova, Castelnuovo dei Monti (RE), tel. 39-0522-812370.

• Santa Maria del Monte. On a hill outside Cesena, this abbey has suffered some of the typical ups and downs of the region. Founded in the 12th century, it was restored in the 1500s, then suppressed by Napoleon and neglected at length. Despite the bombardments of World War II, restorations have returned it to its Renaissance splendor. It has a lovely church with fine frescoes, a charming little cloister and great views of the sea. The 22 monks who live here sell their own wine, liqueurs and honey, and gladly accept guests in the seven single cells. The Pope recently stayed here, but people of all faiths are welcome. Write to Abbazia di Santa Maria del Monte, Cesena (FO), tel. 39-0547-302061, fax 645-080
  

• S. Benedetto. If you're in Fabriano, stop in this monastery to see the wonderful frescoes by Simone de Magistris, the rich baroque decorations and the 15th-century choir stalls.

  
  
  
  

• Hermitage of Monte Giove. Just outside the town of Fano, this simple complex of buildings is not of any particular artistic importance, but it is a wonderful place for a retreat. The dormitory has 40 rooms with water and heating; there are also 10 single cells for men only. Write to Eremo di Monte Giove, Fano (PS), tel. 39-0721-805136.
  
  
  
  

• Convento dell'Immacolata and Convento Madonna della Quercia. These two convents are in the peaceful countryside near Macerata. The first has a dormitory with 54 beds; people who do not wish to participate in the religious activities should stay in the second, which has facilities for 50 guests. Write to Convento dell'Immacolata, S. Angelo in Pontano (MC), tel. 39-0733-661201 or to Convento Madonna della Quercia, Morrovalle (MC), tel. 39-0733-221419.

• Convento di San Nicola. Located in the center of the beautiful town of Tolentino, this is a very popular place of pilgrimage. It has one of the most important fresco cycles of the 1300s, painted by the Master of Tolentino. There are also many excellent paintings in the elegant baroque basilica, a memorable cloister, the cell where St. Nicholas of Tolentino lived, and an interesting museum containing some fine ceramics. St. Nicholas is buried in the crypt. The 20 Augustinian monks host male guests in double and triple rooms. Write to Convento di San Nicola, Tolentino (MC), tel. 39-0733-973029.

• Convento di San Pacifico. Like many monasteries in Italy, this is not a particularly beautiful building. But its location is inspiring, and it is a very well organized place for a retreat, offering 30 rooms with independent bathrooms. Write to Convento di San Pacifico, S. Severino Marche (MC), tel. 39-0733-638110.

• Convento di Renacavata. Located in Camerino, this was the first convent built by the Capuchin monks when they broke away from the Franciscans in 1526. Today it is home to a dozen monks. An association housed next door leads guided tours (9-12 a.m. and 4-6 p.m.) of the original 16th-century structure as well as some 17th- and 18th-century wings. Be sure to see the terracotta altar by Mattia, son of Luca dell Robbia. In it the artist is seen wearing a gray hood (called "cappuccino" - little hood - to distinguish it from the larger one worn by the Franciscans). Gray was the original color of the hood, which gave its name to the Order. Much later, after the color had changed to light brown, it lent its name to a very popular kind of coffee.