A Trip to the Cinqueterre

[Regions of Italy] [Back to Liguria]

I have a particularly fond memory of the region for two very special reasons of my own. The first is that Genoa continually reminds me of my home town, San Francisco. The only real similarity between the two is that they are both built overlooking their respective bays. The objective similarities stop there. Genoa (like most Ligurian coastal settlements) is perched on the slopes that shoot up from the water's edge while San Francisco gradually ascends from the flat marina area to encroach upon and cover the gentle and not-so-gentle hills that stand at some distance from the water's edge.

Nevertheless, when I am in Genoa, there is something intangible which brings to mind my city by the bay.

The other motive of my affection for Liguria is because I once spent an unrepeatably wonderful weekend in the area known as the Cinqueterre (the Five Lands; also spelled Cinque Terre), located just north of La Spezia. Like virtually all Ligurian coastal towns, the Cinqueterre seems to balance precariously on the last fingertips of land jutting out from the continental landmass before it definitively sinks into the sea. Liguria has been defined as a "corridor" of land caught between the Apennines and the sea, and the Cinqueterre is the epitome of that description.

When my two friends and I rendezvoused in Milan (each coming from a separate part of the globe: Rome, Melbourne, Los Angeles), they informed me that instead of driving to Nice as we had previously discussed, "we" (meaning they) had decided to go to the Cinqueterre. Perhaps the element of surprise has influenced my opinion because, although I had heard many good things about the area, I did not really know what to expect. On arriving, I was immediately overwhelmed with the rugged beauty.

The Cinqueterre takes its name from five small villages - Corniglia, Manarola, Monterosso al Mare, Riomaggiore and Vernazza - that defiantly cling to the inhospitably rugged Ligurian coastline. They are, and have been for many centuries, practically inaccessible by land due to the harsh, steep terrain which juts up at their backs. The best way to see them is to take the little train that runs between them. As it goes at frequent intervals, one can hop and skip from one village to the next: have a coffee in one, lunch in the next and a digestivo further on. For the latter, I suggest the terrace of the little bar at the end of the promontory in Vernazza. If you are there in late afternoon and can stay until sunset, it is an unforgettable spectacle.

Each of the Cinqueterre towns has something different to offer. Monterosso has the most famous beach, a 16th-century Capucchin monastery with some fine paintings, and an ancient castle. There are great views of the other towns in Corniglia, along with a more secluded beach (you'll have to walk through an abandoned railway tunnel to get there). Vernazza, perhaps the most dramatic, juts straight out over the water, with crashing waves below to the left and a postage stamp boat harbor to the right. High above are the ramparts of a ruined medieval tower. Riomaggiore is hopelessly picturesque, a beehive of crumbling pastel-colored houses tumbling down to the horseshoe-shaped dock. This is the best place for those who wish to rent a room in someone's home, and there's great snorkeling. Manarola (pictured left) also has excellent swimming off the rocks. An authentic fishing village, it is probably the most genuine of the "lands."

One of the best way to see the Cinqueterre is to hike the many trails that join them. All Riviera di Levante tourist offices can supply maps of the sentieri (paths), many of which have been marked by the Italian Alpine Club. Be sure to ask about the current status of the trail you choose: they are constantly being closed for improvements. The most famous is the Via dell'Amore, which needs no translation. It departs from Riomaggiore, passing tidy vineyards, fragrant herb bushes and rocky outcrops for half an hour on its way to Manarola. The cactus-lined Via delle Agavi links Monterosso al Mare with Vernazza.

While you are staying in the Cinqueterre,don't forget to visit nearby Levanto, Portovenere or Lerici. Portovenere is at the very tip of the Cinqueterre promontory, reachable by car and just as picturesque. While there, don't forget to visit the port and the castle, whence you'll enjoy a superb view of the Gulf of La Spezia, the Cinqueterre and the islands of Palmaria and Tino.

Though not as well known as many of Italy's other regional cuisines, the food along the Ligurian coast is second to none. Seafood, seafood and more seafood, and remember to try the local wines. First and foremost among them is the famous sciacchetrà from the Cinqueterre.

You can park your car in Monterosso or Manarola, but the best way to get to the Cinqueterre is by train (make sure you take the local) or ferry (from Genoa, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Levanto or Portovenere). Purchase a special train ticket that allows you unlimited daily travel between the villages, and since they are only a minute or so apart, you'll probably use it often. When you board the train, try to find out which carriage stops at the platform in your destination. Otherwise you'll have to walk through passageways in the tunnel.