Museums You Could Live In

[Regions of Italy]

One of the reasons the B&B experience has been so successful is that it takes you into a real home, where you can actually see what the local lifestyle is like. It's kind of like your own personal history and sociology lesson, and it's alot more fascinating than tromping through the streets trying to read a guide book.

Italy is loaded with homes you can visit. Some were the studios of your favorite artists, others were the luxurious showplaces of local aristocrats, still others were the humble abodes of obscure peasants. A visit to any will add an enjoyable break to your trip's "monumental" sightseeing schedule.

• VENETO

  Titan's house, Pieve di Cadore

  • Castelfranco Veneto: House of Giorgione, Piazzetta del Duomo. Open Tuesday and Fri-Sun.
  • Arquà Petrarca: Petrarch's House. Open Tues-Sun. Worth a visit, even if only for the spectacular drive to this teensy village where Petrarch spent the last 4 years of his life.
  • Pieve di Cadore: Titian's House, Via Arsenale. Open Tues-Sun, mid-June-mid-Sept.

• VAL D'AOSTA
  • Fenis: Castle. Open Wed-Mon 9-12 and 2-5 (6 in summer). One of the greatest feudal residences in the entire alpine area, with a lovely fresco cycle and fantastic mountain views.
  • Issogne: Castle. Open daily, March-Sept. A sumptuous aristocratic residence filled with frescoes and implements showing the daily life of the "ordinary" local residents.

• PIEDMONT
  • Alagna Valsesia: Walser Home. Open mid-August every day; July on Sat and Sun; other months by appointment. 17th-century farmer's home.
  • Saluzzo: Casa Cavazza. Open April-Sept 9-12 and 3-6; other months 9-12:15 and 2-5:15. An early 15th-century aristocratic home that exudes Renaissance flavor.

    Gabriele d'Annunzio's Vittoriale, Gardone Riviera

    Giuseppe Verdi's studio, Casa Barezzi, Busseto

    Rossini's birthplace, Pesaro

  • Asti: Vittorio Alfieri's House, Corso Alfieri 475. Open Tues-Fri 10-12 and 3-6, Sat and Sun 10-12.

• LOMBARDY
  • Mantova: Mantegna's House, Via Acerbi 47. Open Mon-Sat 9-12:30, Mon and Thurs also 3-6.
  • Gardone Riviera: Il Vittoriale, House of Gabriele D'Annunzio. Open 8:30-12 and 2-5. The lavishly decorated rooms of the poet, playwright and flamboyant patriot form one of the most unforgettable residences in Europe. (Not to be confused with the Vittoriale degli Italiani or the Museo Dannunziano).
  • Bergamo: Donizetti's House, Via Arena 9. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-12 and 2-5:30.

• EMILIA-ROMAGNA
  • Sant'Agata: Verdi's Villa. Open daily by appointment only (tel. 011-39-523-830210). Il Trovatore and Falstaff were written here, and there's a replica of the Milanese room where the composer died.
  • Ferrara: Ariosto's House, Via Ariosto. Open Tues-Sun am. Not surprisingly, this 16th-century house has an interesting library.
  • Ferrara: Casa Romei, Via Savonarola 30. Open Tues-Sun 8:30-2 (ring doorbell if closed). This 15th-century home of a wealthy merchant combines medieval and Renaissance styles.

• MARCHE
  • Pesaro: Rossini's Birthplace, Via Rossini 34. Open April-Oct 10-12 and 2-4; Sun 10-12.
  • Urbino: Raphael's House, Via Raffaello. Open April-Sept, Mon-Sat 9-1 and 3-7, Sun 9-1; Nov-March, Tues-Sun 9-1. Closed in February.

• TUSCANY
  • Anchiano: Leonardo da Vinci's Birthplace.
  • Certaldo: Boccaccio's House, Via di Boccaccio.
  • Torre del Lago: Puccini's Home and Lakeside Amphitheatre.
  • Arezzo: Vasari's House, Via XX Settembre 55. Open Mon-Sat 9-7, Sun 9-1. Exceptionally well decorated 16th-century home.
  • Elba: Napoleon's Summer Home, Villa San Martino, Portoferraio. Open Wed-Mon 9-1 and 3-6 (summer); 9-2 (winter). The Emperor's library, some personal effects and several haunting frescoes about his life.
  • Vespignano: Giotto's House.
  • Sant'Andrea in Percussina: Machiavelli's House. Open Tues-Fri 9-2 and 7-10; Sat 11-7; Sun 9-11 and 4:30-10. Furnished as it was when he wrote The Prince here.
  • Florence: Casa Buonarroti, Via Ghibellina 70. Open Wed-Mon. Several portraits and lots of Michelangelo's personal belongings.
  • Florence: Dante's House, Via Santa Margherita 1. Open Thurs-Tues 9:20-12:30, 3:30-6:30.

• CAMPANIA
  • Anacapri: Villa San Michele. Open daily 9-3:30 (Jan-Feb); 9-5 (March, April, Nov); 9-6 (other months). Though some say Axel Munthe had many of its "authentic" antiquities made for him, this is still one of Italy's most romantic homes, with beautiful gardens and views.
  • Sorrento: Correale Museum, Via Correale. Sumptuous regional furnishings from the 1400s to the 1700s, in an 18th-century villa.

  Giuseppe Garibaldi

• SICILY
  • Palazzolo Acreide: Casa Museo, Via Machiavelli 19. Open Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun mornings. Peasant home with olive press and farming implements.
  • Caos: Playwright Luigi Pirandello's House. Open daily 9-12:30 and 2:30-5.
  • Catania: Bellini's House. Piazza San Francesco. Open Mon-Sat 9-1; Fri 4:30-7:30, Sun 9-7:30. The composer's personal belongings, including several original scores.

• SARDINIA
  • Caprera: Garibaldi's House. Open Tues-Fri 9-1 and 3-6; Sat and Sun 9-1.

[Regions of Italy]