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[Regions of Italy]
Palinuro is a popular beach resort. The original fishing village, in a secluded bay at the edge of the headland, has remained quite unspoiled. The town takes its name from Virgil's Aeneid, in which the spirit of the drowned Palinurus appears in a dream. A boat ride around the headland takes you to the ancient remains of Molfa, with a stop along the way to view the beautiful Blue Grotto. For information, go to the Pro Loco office across from the church (tel. 974/931-121).
Cefalù is one of Sicily's most memorable hill towns. Huddled at seaside below a huge megalithic cliff, it presents visible signs of virtually every foreign power that ever marched through Sicily, all the way back to the Phoenicians, with its crowning glory being the magnificent Norman cathedral whose Byzantine mosaics are rivaled by few anywhere in the world. If you could see only one place besides Palermo, this would be a fine choice. That's also because it sits next to some of the nicest water on the island, and the sandy beaches that stretch for a few miles on both sides are crowded only on summer weekends and in August.
More places to combine a swim with historical sightseeing:
Priano and Conca dei Marini, in Campania. At the latter, you can also take an elevator down to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a large emerald-colored cave.
Grado, in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Resembling a miniature Venice, this pristine town has some of the oldest churches in Christendom, along with an exceedingly rich medieval quarter, right next door to an ultra-modern beach resort and health spa.
Eraclea Minoa, in Sicily. Founded in the fifth century BC, this town was destroyed by the Carthaginians in 409 BC. Its ruins are located in a dramatic setting, high on white cliffs overlooking a first-rate sandy beach. Visit the museum, the large residential quarter, and the theatre. Sit in one of the "deluxe" armchair seats for a knock-out view of the Mediterranean, then take the unpaved road, following the zona balneare signs, down the hill for a refreshing swim. To reach the ruins, take SS115 from Sciacca or Agrigento (about 12 miles either way), then follow the signs to Eraclea Minoa zona archeologica. And while you're here, do not miss the exceptional temples at Selinunte. There is a secret little beach within 15 minutes' walk of the temple, where you'll find a ramshackle little hut serving lunch to bathing suit-clad patrons seated at tables right on the sand. The fish you get here for pennies would cost a week's salary in New York! We're not going to ruin the magic by telling you how to get there - adventurous travelers will have the added thrill of finding it on their own.
[Regions of Italy]