Dear friends of Italy,

I have enjoyed getting the updates on Italy. My husband and I arrived home one month ago from a cruise on the Norwegian Dream. One of the stops we made was at Livorno Italy. We got on a bus, and the tour we took was Florence, and Pisa. We saw all the beautiful monuments, Cathedrals, and statues. Afterwards we stopped back by the Leaning tower of Pisa, and it really was leaning. Ha! We also docked in Civitaveecchia , where we took a bus in to Rome. We didn't get to g o inside the Vatican, because of very long lines, but we toured the City by walking, and had a wonderful time seeing everything. We had lunch at a out door restaurant in the beautiful square or Plaza Navona, where we saw the beautiful statues. We also walked the bridge that had all the beautiful statues all across it. Our ship also docked in Messina (Sicily ) where they took us way up on top of a hill on a bus to see the sights. That was the only place that I wouldn't recommend, as it was only a one way road, and there were four bus loads of us, and we almost couldn't turn around at the top, and really didn't know if we were going to get down safe or not. Ha! Anyway, I have been excited to go to Italy all this year, because of all the updates you have sent me about Italy. I really enjoyed being there, and the Norwegian Dream on their Mediterranean Cruise is the best. Thank you again, and keep sending more.

Joy R.

I went to Italy with my folks, and Ponza was the place to see. It is a small island off the coast of Sicily. The people are friendly and it has this round cave like area called Chiaia de Luna, may not be spelling it right and you get to it by walking though this cave. It is beautiful and the water is so crystal blue. Has some small shops. If you want peace and quiet this is the place to go. I did not like Sicily, as this man tried to rip my dad off. I don't trust the people in Sicily. When we realized my dad was born in Italy, he took off running. Also I remember this little boy coming up to my mom asking for change and when she took her wallet out, a gang of them came running towards us and we had to run from them. They play this game with americans. Italy is beautiful, but you have to be very careful. On the cruise ship going over, my mom had jewelry stolen from their cabin and of course no one knew anything about it. The cruise was wonderful, except for this. I did love Italy though, and would like to go back oneday.

Diana D.

Our trip to Italy the last week of November through the first week of December went beyond our expectations! It was more beautiful than we could possibly have imagined. The tips posted on this site are well worth the time it took to read (we planned our trip at the last minute, so I had to print the comments and read them on the plane, which made good use of the flight).

Do familiarize yourself with the train system if you will be travelling by train. Trenitalia's website is quite helpful. It is well worth the effort before you get there! I had read to reserve a seat, which yes, on most trips even in the slow season, was helpful, but I really did not know how to read where our seats were located. To the right side across where non smoking (non fumatori) is located, you will see a 1 or 2, which indicates class. Then you will see 002 or similar, which indicates which car you will be riding on (perhaps the most helpful number), and then you will see specific seat numbers at the far right. Honestly, our train rides were very pleasant, really without a hitch! The minor problem of not knowing how to read the ticket until our very last ride was the only thing that was a hindrance. Prepare yourself for a lot of going up and down long flights of stairs to find your track (bin) number. Also, since September 11, most stations have permanently closed their luggage rooms and lockers for security reasons. The only station we were at that still operated theirs was Milano Centrale, manned by two policemen. We had planned a brief stopover in Pisa on our way to Rome, and when we found out the lockers were shut down we almost decided not to see the Leaning Tower. But we decided to brave it anyway with our bags, and were quite happy that we did. It made for an adventure---well worth the slight hassle of lugging our bags!

A tip to shoppers! The prices on the streets of Rome are very, very inflated. Try going to one of the bookshops located within the churches (Mamertime Prison or St. Peter in Chains, for example) and that will be the rock bottom price on the street. Even if the street vendors offer you a 50% discount, do not be fooled, usually their first price is about 4 times as much as in those bookstores. There is also a wonderful shop located on Via Cavour called Souveniers Logoteta (Roma) that has great prices, and you can usally bargain a few dollars' worth off of the asking price.

If you are going to Venice, give yourself enough time. Someone told us that it was not big--perhaps compared to a major city--but for a place where either you walk or ride a boat everywhere it was big for us. What a delightful place! Totally unique among the world's cities. You won't want to leave. Allow yourself enough time to see the lagoon cities nearby. Be warned that at Doge's Palace, when they say the ticket office closes at a certain time, they mean it! We were about 2 minutes late (due to the water bus), and even though the palace remained open for another 1 1/2 hours, the office was closed---period. The Ramada in on the mainland (Mestre) is a delightful 4 star hotel. We had a hotels-at-half price card, which they honored and stayed there for $58 per night for a room for 2, including tax and and an all-you-can-eat American breakfast buffet (Italian breakfast is croissants, toast, juice and coffee--theirs was complete with hot and cold items). It took about 10 minutes to get to the island. (should you stay at the Ramada, tell your taxi driver at the train station to take you the back way---it's only 10 minutes---ours went through the city and it took nearly an hour from the Mestre train station!) If you'd rather stay on the island, the Hotel Contintental is a stone's throw from the train station, an ideal locale if you have more than a little luggage.

In Roma, it is true that it takes about 7 minutes to get to the train departing for FCO. The day we were there, it left at 7am, 7:25, 7:59, etc. I believe you can buy your ticket in advance, I would recommend it. It is like any other ticket.

If you want to see the Vatican Museum, you must go in the morning. It opens either at 8 or 9am, and you're asked to leave by 1pm. Go there before visiting St. Peter's Square. You could spend weeks in there alone with all the art! Give yourself enough time! An ideal itinerary would be 1)Vatican Museum 2)St. Peter's Basilica 3) Lunch 4)Castle D'Angelo afternoon in Villa Borghese or trip to Tivoli by metro line. The Roman Museum was interesting. You can buy a pass for the Museum (located in various buildings throughout the city), Colosseum and Palatine Hill. The "Time Elevator Ride" is lots of fun, taking you on a historical journey in motion (or stationary) seats! Also, on the road between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, there is a great grocery store. Visit a grocery store, food stuffs make great gifts! We purchase our water, juice and soft drinks there--$.50 is a lot better than $2, don't you think?

If you're in the area, Pompeii is a must! Go early and give yourself enough time. We were there nearly 5 hours, and still didn't see it all! If travelling from Rome, you can either get a trenitalia train to Pompeii, or take a trenitalia train to Naples, and catch the 1/2 hourly departure circumvesuviana train (takes about 1/2 hour to Pompeii). Departs from the basement of the trenitalia station. Check your trenitalia schedule--the vesuviana may be your better option from Naples. Note: there are no circumvesuviana stations in Rome, only "around Vesuvius".

Italy was more wonderful than I had imagined. I would gladly go again!

Sincerely,
Michelle R.

Dear Jessica,

Thanks for your letter. Yes, I did have a marvelous trip which was both relaxing and exciting. One of my adventures was on the island of Elba, in a town called Marciana. My friend and I were with a large group of women on a hike up a nearby mountain. On the way back down as we entered the maze of cobblestoned streets in the town itself, we took a wrong turn and got separated from our group. The group didn't realize we were missing (there were several vans) and left without us. Now, Marciana is a very small town and no one spoke any English. Our Italian was of the "Ciao", "Due cappuccini, per favore" and "Arriverderci" variety. There were no taxis and no visible public phones. We searched for our group for almost three hours before throwing ourselves on the mercy of Teresa and Lando Anselmi who run a local restaurant called Bar "La Porta." Although they spoke no English we managed to communicate our distress and our need for phone and transportation. They called a taxi from a neighboring town to come and get us. Their warmth and concern was calming and reassuring-- Teresa kept telling us that people on Elba are kind to single women and at one point said we could stay at her house if we couldn't get back to our hotel that evening. Their restaurant is warm and welcoming also and I would like to recommend them to anyone who visits Elba.

Riserva Montebello was a mixed experience. The food was wonderful, the view was spectacular--our window looked out over the swimming pool toward Lake Bolsena. The room was adequate with very comfortable, clean beds and bathroom. However, there was an unpleasant septic-tank-problem? kind of smell in the bathroom and the bath towels were small and not very absorbant. For me the positive outweighed the negative but I'm a sucker for a great view.

Thanks again,
Lois V.

Two places I highly recommend are Hotel Scapolatiello in Cava De'Tirreni near Sorrento. The Scapolatiello is an old hotel with massive rooms at the top of a hill overlooking the town. A small street lined with quaint shops dead ends on to a very small piazza. The entrance to the hotel is here with a small street level vine covered garage available to guests. There is an electric garage gate that is operated from the hotel. They DO have an elevator. A double room with balcony looking out on the square or the hillside was about $90.00 per nite-breakfast is extra. Their address is: Badia Di Cava -84013 Cava De Tirreni (SA) Tel: 089 443611 Fax: 089 443611. We have stayed here twice.

My other recommendation is the Villa Edy in Lake Como (actually Tremezzo) This is a family run hotel. Rooms in the main house have excellent views of the lake and/or mountainside. All are meticulous and good size with very modern bathrooms and some with balconies. There is no elevator. Rooms in the main house run $65.00 to 75.00 double including a great breakfast. There are also 5 suites ground level away from the main house that face out to the pool. They are new and all have private entrances with outdoor furniture at each entrance. There are no stairs going to the suites so luggage with wheels is a snap. The suites are 95.00 double. There is plenty of parking eliminating squeezing into small areas. There are several grassy areas with lawn furniture and the pool also has a good supply of furniture. Last but not least there is a regulation size tennis court. They have managed to include all of these amenities without giving the place a "Ramada" look and retaining a definite Tuscan flavor. The access is a road off the main lake road up about 1/10 of a mile into the gated Villa Edy. We have stayed here 3 times. Since our last visit they have completed a small 2 story structure that contain 2 apartments. They now have a web site:http:/www.lakecomo.com EMail is Villaedy@libero.it.

Don J.

Hi,

I've spent my holidays at the Hotel Corallo last summer, and I think it is worth recommending it. It is a small family hotel but you receive a warm welcome by the owner, the food at the restaurant is fantastic with succulent house wine. The room is basic but clean and mine had panoramic terrace with sea view.

I think your site is great.

Regards,
Patrick

I am an amature cyclist. When I first started to go to Italy I just brought my bike and rode through the countryside. I met some Italian cyclists (not hard to do). They were so kind they got me an Italian cycling license to race, picked me up and took me to different races, in later years they added me to their team. They taught me more about bicycle racing in a few years than I ever could have learned in a lifetime in the US. The highlight of my cycling life was competing in the Tour of Parma, a five-day stage race. I came in 9th overall. At the award ceremony the organizer presented me with a plaque for being the only American to finish this race. I was quite honored even though I did not finish in the top three. Anyone who is interested in cycling or racing in Italy should go for the experience. The Italians were so helpful and friendly. Most of all the really appreciated the effort an American had to put into competing in a strange country.

HS Coco

In planning every trip, I research the web and travel books for more information. I hope this information will prove useful to you and I would be happy to answer any questions you may have. We just returned from 2 weeks in Italy. What I have done is laid out our itenary. We are in our early 30's with no children or pets, budget moderate.

Rome-3 days touring the city and sites. I found this to be adequate, but we were on the go all day. Loved all the outside cafes and little alleys. Felt safe and never ran into any of the gypsies you read about in some of the tour books. Treat traveling abroad as you would any city you may travel to. We stayed near the Spanish Steps at Hotel Valadier. We liked the location, hotel was clean, fluffy towels, firm beds, good water pressure, quiet, no street noise. It is kinda like a ship inside in that it has the dark wood and a mirror on the ceiling. It sounds a bit sketchy but it was fine. The only negative is the rooms are a bit small but we expected this. We thought it was a good value and would return. Definately found the ruins to be confusing and would suggest a tour for this area. At least if you want to get the meaning out of the ruins and know what is what.

Picked up car in downtown Rome from Auto Europe. Best prices and we were surprised with a Mercedes. Very happy considering that we were expecting to put lots of miles on the car. Driving can be a bit stressful but doable. We live in Boston where they are rather aggressive so we just had to step it up a notch.

Off to Umbria where we stayed at Relais II Canalicchio. Its about 15 minutes south of Perugia. Absolutely wonderful and romantic hotel perched on a cliff. It was like my own villa. We just loved it there. It was picture perfect, very large rooms, clean etc. I would also return. We traveled to Spoleto, Assissi (the church is amazing) Gubbio and Deruta (the pottery place-I have the spelling wrong).

Parma-wasn't thrilled with. Though we both keep in mind that we just came off of 2 beautiful days in Umbria. Stayed at Hotel Verdi and weren't jumping for joy at that either. I thought it was a lot of $ for what it was. Ate at Le Greppia and it was fabulous and great service!

Lake Como was absolutely beautiful. We had been trying to get a reservation in Bellagio and couldn't and so we stayed at Hotel Villa Flori outside of Como by Cernobbio. The views were incredible. We ended up driving around some of the towns and took a ferry to Bellagio. Bellagio is beautiful but don't be disappointed if you can't stay there, all of Lake Como is wonderful. You will not be disappointed with Lake area.

Off to the Cinque Terra. Also wonderful. Stayed in Monterossa at Hotel Pasquale. What wonderful people. We happened to be there when we heard the trajic news about the terrorist activity and they were just wonderful. Great value for the money-very standard no frills. Very clean, good water pressure, firm beds, small bathrooms. If you are planning on being out of your room but want a good place to come home and sleep for good $ this is it. Vernazza is a beautiful town. We hiked from Monterossa to the 3'rd town in less than 3 hours. It is physically challenging though I saw people with sandals, pets, babies....Personally, I thought jiking boots and water was important. Hotel Porta Roca is another good option if you want to pay a bit more and can get in. We tried but couldn't. We also rented a small boat www.damianobarche.it which was a great way to see everything. He picked us up in Monterossa and then we went to Santa Margherita, Portofino and another place to swim. He can take up to 10 people-just 6 of us went out for the day and was so much nicer than the ferry or driving.

Then we headed to Lucca, San Giginamo and stayed at Locanda dell Amorosa near Sinalunga (15 minutes south of Sienna) Another absolutely beautiful, honeymoon type place. Great location for esploring Chianti, Monalcino, Montepulciano etc...Very large rooms, good sized bathrooms, beautiful pool that looks like its draining off the side of a cliff. Very romantic. Found Tuscany very beautiful though I didn't find going to wineries as easy as I had expected. Many close from 12-3. Most require reservations. I would suggest booking some sort of tour, whether it be private or through the hotel for this. It isn't like Napa.

Florence is another good walkable town. Get rid of the car. We had arranged to drop the rental off in town so we could drop off our luggage at the hotel. We survived but it wasn't fun. We stayed at a newly renovated Hotel called Hotel Benivieni near the Duomo. Great location, newly renovated, very clean, tastefully decorated. One night it was very noisy and the next night silent. We are still wondering if somehow we didn't shut the window properly or something. Very perplexed. To be safe, I would ask for a room off the street. Good price in that area.

More tips: We had no issues of safety while we were there. No car wrecks, rude drivers, gypsies etc. Just be aware of your surroundings. As far as taxi's go, always ask how much before you get in. We got ripped off at the Rome airport. We were tired and thought if we ignored the people soliciting in the airport and went to the designated cab stand at the airport we would be safe. He charged us a 100 USD and didn't even drop us off at the door (said he couldn't get down that street). IT should have been 50$ at the most and we later learned yes he could have gone down that street. We travel quite frequently and were kicking ourselves for being so ignorant. You just get tired and thats when you let your guard down.

Any other questions, I would be glad to share and assist. Bless us all and I hope those that are traveling are safe.

marmstrong@boston-partners.com

Sept 9th my husband and i returned from a 9 day visit to sicily...we did not tour the island, we went and ventured on our own...it was wonderful...we met up with a 68yr old retired sicilian, who now has his own taxi and he showed us sites we never could have experienced in ones travels alone...he took us into the small towns where all you saw were the inhabitants..they were so friendly and posed for out pictures...we went to a town called Savaco, they filmed the Godfather there in 1971..we saw all the pictures taken of al pacino and marlon brando...we stayed in naxos, hellenia yachting hotel and it was just lovely...if ever you wonder if traveling to italy alone, without guides, go for it.... the italians are more than willing to help you.... ciao

sherrie and mike

Since visiting this site I've not seen much info. about the island of elba. we stayed at the hotel hermitage resort for 4 days. the island, the resort and the people were all terrific. we had come from 5 terre and sestri levante thinking that scenery was fantastic. in my opinion, it didn't compare to the beauty and fun of elba. although it is a small island, each town had it's own flavor and terrain, and charm. the car rental company, elba by car, was so helpful and friendly. Massimo was extremely helpful and recommended our group rent a mercedes van. we were reluctant but the price was very fair and the luxury was worth it. elba has top of mountain towns, and seaside towns. olives, grapes and beautiful flaura. i can't wait to go back. we learned that italy is a country that needs several visits. we enjoyed the cities ( the major 4) but nothing compared to each regions unique country side. i loved using this web page and will book all of our lodgings through initaly in the future. the hotels they recommended for us were the best. thanks and happy italy to all.
valtek@fast.net

Our sincere thanks to Patrick for his advice and assistance in making rental car reservations. The price was well below what I had expected to pay, all details were covered in the contract, and our pick-up (Florence downtown) and drop-off (MXP) were flawless.

The reserved tickets to Uffuzi and Academia were perfect and even when we were not able to get into Florence for our reserved time, we were able to use them the next day. Thanks Kelly!

While my traveling companions opted to make hotel reservations on their own, I regret not using Initaly more fully.

Notes on the visit:

1. April 25 is Liberation Day in Italy...expect most stores and many restaurants to be closed (we arrived to a deserted Milan)
2. May 1 is Labor Day (and Patrick warned me that cities would be shut down). What we didn't expect is that EVERYONE from the cities would be visiting the countryside where we were on that day (Siena, Pienza...). All "quaint" medieval towns looked liked Disneyland and hotel rooms were at a premium. The proximity of May 1 to the weekend meant that everyone planned a long weekend.
3. Hotel Aprile in Florence is an excellent hotel (approx $130/night double w/bath) - although street noise well into early hours of morning forced me to keep windows closed (room had air conditioning). It's 2 blocks from train station.
4. Rule 1, Don't Drive In Rome.
5. Rule 2, If you must drive in Rome, see Rule # 1

   If I had to go to Rome again (it might be a cold day in hell before that happens) I'd book a room outside of the tourist areas and rely on the Metro to get me into the heart of the action. I'd arrive via train.

   Gypsies were non-existent during our visit - maybe I didn't look hard enough. I did notice an abundance of police and vigilante vehicles near the big tourist spots. Maybe they're cracking down on street crime?

6. Otello (a Trattoria near Spanish Steps, Rome) served an excellent dinner - one of the best we had in Italy.

It was a great trip, next year I'm looking at 7 days in Positano and I'll rely more on Initaly.com to guide me!

Thanks again.
Wayne T.

I stayed with my uncle and a few relatives in a little town I believed called Barteloma , And we stayed at a villa called Villa de san Bonifacio, It's a huge villa at the very end of a dead end road in Barteloma the town had a family owned pizza shop and it was delicioyse It was like I was at my grandmothers house they treat you like family, and never stop chatting, of course in Italian but for some reason I could understand them, It was awesome. And the prettiest classiest city I waent to was verona, And i visisted Juliet Capulet's house and the cool thing is that the streets are impecably cleen, but inside the gates of her house, the walls are covered with love phrases, like I love so and so, it's very Romantic place! I also visited venice which was very pretty, the Gondalires have this fairy tale charm to them! I would have to say that if your looking for romance and mystery then stay in a small not charted town like I did, (there's less annoying tourists) And It s a great oppertunity to meet some friendly Italians, and get to know there culture! Italy leaves you wanting more!

Everything worked perfectly with reservations for the uffizi and to see DAVID. we would really recommend that everyone make the reservations as the lines were about a 2 hour wait at both places. would also recommend the same for the pitti palace. we didn't do that and wished we had. by the way, the reservation entrances are well marked and people were very helpful. we would also recommend the hermitage hotel in florence, next to uffizi and ponte vecchio and bisanzio hotel in venice, a 2 bridge walk from st marks square.... both are small, friendly, convenient and about $220 for a triple including breakfast. once again, your reservation service was great ..we will use you again soon..

Best regards
Doug p.

We took the advice and stayed at Tramonte D'oro, Praiano. We really enjoyed the lovely conversations with Mama and her very helpful daughter. In addition to the previous comment, I can say that it was the best hotel breakfast I had ever had in Italy. Flexi-time (served until lunch-time, no need to hurry!) and delicious with original choices. Our stay enabled us to relax and enjoy our holidays.

A bit of advice for visits to Costiera Amalfitana: Prefer to travel before Easter. The holiday is better value, the region is not packed with tourists yet and if you are lucky (we were), the weather is gorgeous.

By the way, we did the Capri In a Day trip. It was great! Thanks.

Purnur & Can from Istanbul

As you might expect I had to hit the ground running when I got back. We loved Italy! And, we loved Dennis. Our two walking tours with him were very educational especially for me as I have no art background. His very informative tour helped me distinguish different art periods when I later visited the galleries. And, as you all well know, he is just a great person. You really feel like you are walking around town with an old friend, not just another tour guide.

All three of our museum reservations worked out quite well. Only at the Borghese was there no separate line for those with reservations. We had to stand in the regular ticket line. However, I suspect this was because there was not a very long line -- only about 15-20 people in front of us. We were there early so it wasn't a problem.

We brought back so many museum guide books that the airlines plastered one of our suitcases with a tag that said HEAVY.. You were very correct in recommending the official museum guides. They not only help you get the most out of your museum tour but make a great addition to your library. The pictures in the guides are worth every penny. Actually, they are not too expensive - about $15 or so.

All the museums were very well marked so that you could make your way through with ease. Only the Vatican Museums were very confusing. All the guide books talk about path A,B,C, or D. Forget it! All you can do is to be sweep along with the crowd. I never saw any signs for different paths. Of course, the place is HUGE! Strange that they should have such organization getting you through the ticket lines and fall short on guiding you once you are in.

While there are many great travel guide books on the market I want to mention the ones I used. I found most guide books give you information overload, have small print (especially for those of us with bifocals), and are too large to carry easily. We walked all over Rome and Florence using a little book by TripBuilder, one for each city. It has a very readable fold out map and a short description of each important sight. The second book was the Insight Compact Guide for each city. It is organized into easy to follow walking routes that take about 2 hours. Sights are rated by importance with 1, 2, or 3 stars. Both books are small enough to fit in your coat pocket.

I want to compliment you on your great web site. As a computer professional I appreciate the work your group has put into it. I am still visiting and reading the material available. It keeps my trip fresh in my mind. I have pointed several friends to your site. My brother and sister-in-law will be going to Italy next year and I told them to start reading your web site NOW! Hopefully, we will be going back in 2002 so I'll be dropping in on you again.

I have traveled in almost every European country, but this was my first trip to Italy. It was so awesome that I can hardly wait to go again. I've even checked into Berlitz classes and plan take a few Italian lessons. Everybody there was very patient with my Spanish accented trys at Italian! Thanks again for your help with our trip.

Marty M.

Yes the major cities such as Rome, Venice, Milan, Torino, Naples are all very interesting and fun to visit, but don't overlook the smaller towns for another view of Italy. The town of Fiuggi for example is about 1 hour by train from Rome and is site of Fiuggi water that is sometimes sold here in the states. This is a first class town that offers mineral water "cures" but is every bit as Sheik as Palm Springs, Cal, Madison Ave., Miami etc. There is also Sulmona, the home of the Jordan Almond factory and near the Parco Nazionale of Abruzzi (which is also very lovely and much like our Yellowstone etc. Try Matera in Puglia region. The air is so clean, the town (about 25,000) is also home of the Natuzzi leather furniture factory. Dont go to Sperlonga because I expect to retire there in 2 years and I don't want it too get too crowded with tourists (its on the Mediterranean coast just south of Rome--of course you should go, its beautiful). Look around southern Italy for the real home folks, go to the agricultural areas such as the Salentina which is the high plains area of Puglia. You will see more olive trees than you thought we possible to grow (and visit the olive processing plants). Above all leave your ATTITUDE at home, roll with the punches because real travelers know how to travel safely and understand that SHIT will happen no matter how well prepared you are so if you cant be flexible and tough enough for the change of scenery, and cant be resourceful STAY HOME AMIGO.

Hello. i had a look around your website and i've noticed that you have a little section about interesting tourists in 'hill towns.' i have a hill town i'd like to tell you about. my boyfriend, nathan, and i (we're americans) live near pietrasanta, italy (versilia, toscana) and he has just completed frescoing (in the old renaissance technique) an entire church, practically floor to ceiling, all four walls, in a little hill town named Gallena. it is such an amazing accomplishment. i doubt that anyone else right now is doing anything like what he has done up there. they are completely his designs, they are very modern, and he has done all the work himself (except for the intonico that i mixed for him!). he is only 26 years old. we would love to get word out about this little treasure in the mountains of tuscany. please feel free to contact us. to reply by email, please send to monkey4004@yahoo.com. currently we are in the states, and we will be returning to italy in early september. i attached a photo for you. enjoy! thanks for your time, virginia

Hello,

I would like to offer my opinion on a bed & breakfast called FriendsWithFriends, part of TasteofItaly.com in Rome.

I inquired about a room that was described as being in "a quiet and elegant residential area." After I gave the owner my credit card and he sent me the street address, I looked it up on a map and discovered that the room I had paid for was in what is possibly the sleaziest part of the city. I advise anyone who is looking for a B&B in Florence NOT to consider FriendsWithFriends, part of TasteofItaly.com and to verify the street address of the property before paying when dealing with anyone renting accomodations.

C. Yelton

Hi

My mother and I recently stayed at the Hotel Bernardi Semenzato in Venice, as it was supposed to be one of the nicer hotels for a very reasonable amount of money. Nothing could be more of an illusion. We arrived mid-afternoon to find that our room had been given away despite our reservations and re-confirmation the previous day. No compensation was offered, not even an apology! We were then given a small room with no private bath, and the next day we were given a very loud "double" (aka, no bigger than the first, just with two beds) room overlooking the street. The hotel fronts to a very narrow alley, and has a restaurant directly across from it, so needless to say at night it was impossible to sleep! Also, if you choose not to sleep with the windows open (the rooms are stifling!) there is an additional charge per night to use the air conditioning. The next day, having moved to our new room, we discovered that the maid had thrown away our bath supplies we had left in our private bath. When i talked to the owner, he said that I must be mistaken and refused to discuss it. The final clincher was when the day before we left venice I discovered one of my portable CD books with 24 CD's in it missing from our room. I asked the owner if anyone had seen it, and then tried to report it stolen. The owner immediately flew into a rage and began shouting at me, and then stormed off into another room and slammed the door in my face. The bill was summarily presented the next day, and he refused to speak to us. For six days the price was 1,200,000 lira, and given everything about the hotel, NOWHERE NEAR a bargain.

Melody
miller@frontierfinance.com

Just back from 2 weeks in Italy (July, 2000) and thought I'd share some tips and memories. My wife and I stayed in Stresa, Bergamo, Iseo on Lake Iseo, Lasize on Lake Garda, and Venice. While in Lasize, we took day trips to Verona and Vicenza. Impressions:

With the dollar worth about 2000 lira, it's a great time to go to Italy. Outside of always expensive Venice, prices were very reasonable. We had some great meals, usually with a half-bottle of wine, for under $35. As far as the expected huge crowds in the jubilee year, we had no problems, although admittedly, we were in the north, far from Rome.

Having heard the horror stories of thefts (and seeing examples on 3 previous trips to Italy), we were very careful. I wore a concealed money belt and kept my wallet (with one credit card and a bit of cash) in my front pocket, usually under my left hand. We had no problems, thankfully, but our approach made for peace of mind throughout.

If you're visiting the lakes, try to find a copy of National Geographic Traveler magazine's May/June, 1997 issue. We've gotten so many good ideas from an article on the Italian lakes from this one source. There are some beautiful photos of restaurants and towns that we've made it a point to visit.

We rented a car for our transportation and loved the mobility it provided. Not having to rely on scheduled trains fits our travel preferences. We did a lot of driving on the autostrade (the A4, which goes east and west across the north). This three lane toll highway is fast, but very consistent. The third lane is ONLY for passing cars in the middle lane. Once you've passed, get back over. The right hand lane is mostly used by trucks who also venture into the second. I spent most of my time in the middle lane, averaging about 65 mph, constantly checking my rear view mirror to make sure I wasn't inappropriately placed. How fast is the high speed lane? Seemed to me that the Audis and BMW's were in the 80-90 range as they blew past. We thought the roads were generally well-marked for directions.

Comments on places: Stresa: just gorgeous. Great hotels (we stayed at the Astoria and loved it), good shopping, and the nearby Borromean Islands definitely worth a trip. We also drove over the twisting mountain road from Stresa to Lake Orta. Little Orta san Giulio is charming.
Bergamo: the old upper town is, as advertised, quite splendid. Parking is difficult, so be prepared for some steep walking.
Iseo: wonderful small town on Lake Iseo. Filled with tourists, but somehow sedate. Good lake front restaurants and a square with a wonderful statue/moss-covered fountain honoring Garibaldi. We loved it here.
Lasize: beautiful old castle town on Lake Garda. Huge crowds (mostly German and Austrian tourists), but plenty of restaurants to accomodate the visitors. Traffic around Lake Garda is a problem. The southern resorts were especially jammed. We drove around the entire lake and found some lovely areas at northern end.
Verona: great city just loaded with physical beauty and places to visit. The arena in Piazza Bra is very impressive and Castelvecchio is worth a visit.
Vicenza: Palladio's architecture makes this a worthwhile stop. Loved the Piazza dei Signori and the rebuilt Duomo.
Venice: We dropped our car at Marco Polo Airport and took the Alilaguna boat into St. Mark's area. Cost $8.50 per person including luggage.Porters are available at dock to cart luggage if needed. We stayed at Hotel Flora: quaint, charming, air-conditioned, centrally located. We decided to take a private water taxi back to airport. Cost $75, but quick and reliable when facing an unforgiving departure time. While in Venice, we visited the extraordinary Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari and nearby Scuola Grande di San Rocco. The Frari is a church just filled with amazing works of art, notably Titian's 'Assumption' over the main altar. The Scuola is filled with monumental works by Tintoretto. By all means, cross the Grand Canal and see these two unforgettable buildings (The admission price at the Scuola includes use of excellent, informative headsets).

Hope this was helpful. The lakes are really worth a visit for fun and relaxation while there are enough cultural things to do to keep you busy. It felt strange to visit Italy and NOT see Florence and Rome, but there will be other trips.

John from Connecticut

Just returned from a FANTASTIC Italian vacation. The crowds in Rome were less than I had expected. In fact, my wife and I didn't have to wait to enter the Vatican Museums (loved the Sistine Chapel ceiling!) We went after lunch rather than first thing in the morning.

We stayed at the hotel PABA which is located on the second "piano" of a large building 5 minutes from the Colosseum. Highly reccomended. Clean, modern rooms, extremely friendly host who helped us locate restaurants and call taxis, and very reasonable rates.

David from Ontario

The trip went really well, thanks to you and all those reservations. Keep encouraging people to rent those headphones. They are the best!!! Got pickpocketed in Florence, but realized it soon enough to chase the guy and have him drop what he took. He unzipped the purse while we were in line for ice cream, and we would have never known had it not been for our 11 year old who was wondering who butted in front of her. Looking up to see if it was her dad, and seeing that it wasn't, she knew he was a pickpocketer. She said, "That guy just pickpocketed Grams!" and off we were in hot pursuit. They are just waiting for you!!!! I highly recommend that you forget a purse all together and have a backpack strictly for clothing and souvenirs. All the rest should be in front of you at all times and locked. We were glad to leave so we didn't have to be on guard all the time. That takes a lot of energy. Bellagio was just beautiful. I would go back tomorrow, actually. When you travel with two children and an 82 year old grandmother, there is a lot of responsibility involved regarding personal safety and otherwise. Grams almost got run over in Florence by a horse and buggy. Keep warning those people to be aware of pickpocketers and theft. Florence had more than we would have imagined. We were watched as possible victims by more than one. Ticks me off!!! Never left the car with any evidence whatsoever that we were tourists in transit.

Thank you again and again. You were so helpful.
Yours truly,
Gini

First of all, let me begin by saying that your site is SPECTACULAR. I have such fond memories of my summer in Italy and your site brings my memories back to life. The summer of 1999 was so wonderful for me. I had the great opportunity to complete a Summer Abroad Program in Rome. We stayed at a beautiful, quaint little hotel directly adjacent to the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. Hotel Casa Kolbe was small but also very warm and inviting to all its tourists. The staff were friendly and always willing to help us, no matter what the situation. I also found a great little Bistro close to the Protestant Cemetery called Taverna Cestia. The food was wonderful, my personal favorite was an appetizer of cannelloni with the main course being Calamari and a good red wine. The waiters were friendly and most of them spoke some English. It was an excellent place to go for a relaxing simple meal, for not a lot of money.

Tina Grigsby
pooh@bayou.com

Julie and I (Geoff) Just got back from 15 days touring from Roma to Milano...with the following stopover between:

Orvieto (Day Trip)
Perugia, with a wonderful stay at the Castello dell'Oscano (Wow!). We went horseback riding in Alcatraz, visited Gubbio and Assisi.
From there we went to San Gimignano..the Towered City...Stayed right outside the gates at Relais Santa Chiara...locale was wonderful. 3 Days of Tuscan treasures, including Volterra....home of some beautiful Alabaster works....and Florence....we should have spent another day just in Florence...we loved it.....
Then on to Santa Marguerita and Portofino....nothing like a day sail in the Med off the Italian Riviera.
Finally off to Milan......

Can't say enough about our trip...and look forward to another trip next year!!!

Thanks InItaly...you website was crucial to our plans...couldn't have done it without you.

Ciao! Geoff and Julie Less
geoffless@home.com

Hi,

I lived In Como for about one year, It Is totally beautiful, the people are friendly and the food is excellent. The lake is surrounded by mountains. I worked with my uncle who had a tour boat and we would tour the lake with tourists. Bergamo is also beautiful, small farms dot the countryside, the air has a sweet fragrance from the flowers, perfect for a wedding. I forget the name of the restaurant that was up in the mountains that overlooked the lake. You can see Switzerland from that view, and a great part of the lake. And you have to take a tram to get to the place. Good choice, Good luck,

JT
JTesta1894@aol.com

Both Dennis in Rome and Federico in Florence gave us great tours. One of our best dining experiences (we ate there twice) was a small family restaurant in Florence recommended by Federico -- I Che Ce Ce -- centrally located. The name, loosely translated, means "What you see is what you get."

Jane and Chuck H

We traveled to Tuscany for the month of May. It was our first European trip ever, and we thought about it and did it the only logical way. In other words, we did it the way we thought everyone else does it. Turns out we were wrong. Relatively few people do it our way. So, in case you have a yearning, I'm going to write a few pages about the trip, just enough to let you know that you can do the same thing, without riding a tour bus! Along the way, I'll occasionally separate fiction from fact. You hear a lot of information-and misinformation-about Tuscany, but we pretty much know the difference, having been on the scene. For instance, people will tell you that "everyone speaks English-they are all required to study it in school". The fact is that virtually no one speaks English in the hill country. But with a combination of a handful of kindergarten-level Italian phrases, lots of gesticulating and grunting, and helpful people on the other side of the "conversation", language is not a problem. Dreena, for instance, learned to say "Dove' la toiletta" and left the heavy lifting to me.

Here's what we did: we contacted an internet site called InItaly.com, located in Los Angeles. It was the first and most important step. Now, for all we knew, when we sent them money it could have disappeared into cyberspace. But we liked this Kristin person, and we had faith in her. It was well-placed. She heard our plan and said " 'Palazzo Bandino' is the place for you." Everything she told us about it turned out to be equal to, or better than, represented. This particular rental was a nicely-modernized stone farm building with a bedroom, two baths, kitchen, dining area, and a patio with a table and chairs, all overlooking vineyards, olive trees, and Mt. Amiata to the west. It was comfortable and the gal we dealt with there was a sweetheart-to the limited extent that we dealt with her, since we were always on the move. But what is really important about it is location, location, location.

It is 14 minutes from the train station in Chiusi, just in case you want to-as we did-grab a train and run up to Venice or down to Rome for 3 days or so-or, for that matter to Florence-which is easier and cheaper by train than by car (we did it both ways). It is 10 minutes from an entrance ramp to the autostrada, a terrific highway that we took up from Rome to Palazzo Bandino, but then took many, many times to get near Tuscan towns a lot more quickly than we could by taking the curvy, climby back roads all the way. Finally, it is about 10 minutes from the only Mall around. "Mall?" you say. "Who in hell goes to Tuscany to go to a Mall?"

Well, it's like this. Do you like your coffee-real Colombian coffee-in the morning? Where do you think you are going to find it? You need a coffee maker like the one in our place and the supermarket at the mall, and then, and only then, will you have your morning coffee. Want to check your stocks or your bank account on the internet? There's a place to get online in the mall. Contrary to what you might suppose, such places are not on every street corner. Did you forget an iron-or some clothing-or comfortable shoes when you packed? The mall has you covered.

This reminds me of another point: I assumed that I could watch the Flyers play for the Stanley Cup on the TV we had. Isn't ESPN on everywhere? No, it is not. In fact, the only English-speaking channel was CNN International. This is an interesting channel if you are heavy into what is going on in Sierra Leone, or Amsterdam, or Manila, but if you are primarily interested in what is going on in America, forget about it. The only reason to turn it on is the fact that you hear someone speaking English, which is a pleasant change, even though the accents are British rather than American.

But enough of this. We did not go there to watch TV and , in fact, did not. We went to drive madly all around Tuscany in our delightful rented Fiat Punto (around 33 bucks a day, unlimited mileage, you buy the gas)-available through AutoEurope, also connected through InItaly.com, though ours was arranged by a long-time buddy, a retired TWA Captain. You pick it up at the airport in Rome and a couple of hours later, up the autostrada, cautiously at first, you will arrive at Palazzo Bandino. This is one helluva 7 or 8 thousand dollar car. Tight, peppy, handles well through the turns on the mountain roads, and a ball to drive. Four doors, plenty of room for us and luggage and could carry four people around with ease. It only fell short when I got into the passing lane on the autostrada, because when I got up to 85 m.p.h. or so it did not have a lot left. What happens then is you suddenly see one flash of headlights in your rear-view mirror and that signals that a BMW, Mercedes, Alfa, Audi or, occasionally, a Volvo, is approaching at about 125 miles an hour. You immediately get the hell out of the way, since these guys do not even get out of cruise control, much less slow down. By the time we cleared the lane and they went by, I think we were, on average, about 3 feet apart. Not a big deal-they have the right cars on the right roads and they handle them well. You get used to autostrada driving in no time. Same for driving the hills-lots of climbs and curves, no death-defying drop-offs, an occasional car in a hurry behind you…let 'em wait. Eventually, they will shoot by, though not in locations where we would pass, but again, you will get used to it fast. Another thing: you will hear conflicting advice about whether you need an International Driver's License (10 bucks at an AAA office). The answer is that you will not need one to rent the car-your U.S. license will do. You will, however, need one if you are stopped by the law-so get one.

Speaking of AAA's, they will try to unload a lot of Traveler's Checks on you, tell you how much you need them, etc. Travelers from the old days will tell you the same thing. Instead of fooling with that, put some money in your checking account and get an ATM card. What the Italians call "Bankomats" are all over the place, even in the smallest towns. If your bank is in the Cirrus network, your card will work in about 80% of these machines-no charge for using them-and you will get the immediately current rate of exchange, no extras, no bull. Leave the Traveler's Checks at AAA.

One other thing while we are separating fiction from fact: the only thing Dreena complained about was the absence of her diamond and her Rolex…they were missing every time she looked at her wrist. On my wrist was a Timex-aside from the "ex", quite dissimilar from my Rolex. Why? We had received a consensus of advice that valuables should be left home, that the country abounded with pickpockets and assorted thugs of every description that might remove your finger or wrist to get the jewels if necessary. We firmly believe that was bad advice. We never sensed the near existence of a threat-and we were on the alert in the cities. As for the Tuscan towns, the idea of such danger is ridiculous. Now, as a caveat, I would suggest that we don't look like the biggest pigeons around-there were a lot of easier looking targets, like little old ladies with purses hanging over their shoulders-but I didn't sense that any of them were threatened either. In any case, if that describes you, maybe you had better leave the jewels at home so I don't worry about you.

Okay. Those are some of the logistics, but what did we actually do? Aside from Venice, Rome and Florence, we spent the rest of the time visiting these walled towns on hill or mountain tops. The towns were located and protected that way because for centuries all these people (my ancestors) did was try to kill each other off. So a town would be impregnable except for 3 or 4 Portas, or gates, where the locals were allowed to drive their cars in and around streets 10 feet wide with buildings on either side (you flatten yourself against a building when one is driving by), but you, an unauthorized person, park your car at the gate and walk. If you park at the high end, you will walk mostly downhill and will have to climb back to your car. We usually parked at the low end and did our climbing at the outset. I do mean "climbing". Lots of steps, steep, narrow roads-you would consider them alleys-ending up in piazzas-squares-usually flanked by major buildings such as a duomo--a cathedral--, and one or more palazzos, old palaces turned into government buildings, museums or the like. I mention the climbing and walking because you will need to train for this trip…be in decent walking shape, at least. Have some walking shoes. My Dreena, of course, did almost all of it in heels-but that's Dreena! You bring walking shoes.

We visited a bunch of places like that, ranging in population from a couple thousand people to 150,000. (The larger ones have had modern cities grow up around, and usually below, the old town, so the large population numbers are a little misleading). They included Pienza, Montepulciano, Cortona, Lucignano, Monte San Savino, Sinalunga, Trequanda, Montalcino, San Quirico d'Orcia, Volterra, Chianciano, Radicofani, Arezzo, Monte Oliveto Maggiore, Castiglione de Lago, Citta' della Pieve, Abbadia San Salvadore, Montichiello, Monterchi, Sansepolcro, Anghiara, Siena, Castel Montecchio, and in the next-door province of Umbria, Passagano, Assisi and Perugia.

Generally speaking, when these folks were not killing one another they were building churches-many more than the population could possibly need-and other very impressive buildings. These churches, mostly 12th through the 15th centuries, would take them anywhere from 100 to 150 years to build. They were intended either as the ultimate glorification of God, or were attempts to out-do the enemies in the other hill towns. Either way, the marble work, the designs, the mosaics, stained glass, the paintings and the frescoes on the walls will astound and humble you. The architecture will capture your attention. And the food and wine-at any of the many restaurants available-will deeply satisfy you; we ate our main meal at mid-day while we were touring these towns.

Speaking of food and wine: we researched a list of possible places to eat before we left. Some we found, most we didn't. It makes no difference. Tuscan food (and Umbrian, too, I think) is sophisticated because of its simplicity. It depends entirely upon fabulous ingredients. The tomatoes were the best we have ever had; ditto the mushrooms. But the key is the olive oil. We buy the best we can get from an Italian grocery in D.C., but all of it has some odor or after taste. In Italy, the most garden-variety restaurant or household serves up olive oil golden in color and golden in flavor. So you can eat some bruschetta-- great bread grilled on both sides, rubbed with garlic, and covered with olive oil-very simple, no?--and it will knock your socks off. Put some wonderful tomatoes cut into small pieces on one-or some sautéed mushrooms-or some white beans-or, in one case, a paste made of truffles, and this simple serving makes the "garlic bread" we get in Italian restaurants around here seem really disgusting.

But even before the bruschetta arrives, we are alternating sips of aqua frizzante--mineral water with carbonation-and wine like you have never had before. Now, you can go to Montalcino and try their famous Brunello and you can go to Montepulciano and try their equally famous Vino Nobile, and you will not be disappointed. The same is true of the Chiantis in the region they call home. But if you want to make it easy on yourself-both in ordering and when the bill comes-just order a liter of "vino della casa", the house wine, best in rosso-red-but white if you insist, and enjoy. I guarantee you that the house wine in the most modest restaurant you can find will surpass any that you normally drink. And, there are no sulfites added; no headaches; you don't feel like a drunkard. Simply put, it is just great stuff. And then, along comes the pasta-all the usual sizes and shapes, plus the most popular one over there, hand rolled "pici", a thicker form of spaghetti. Sauces? Take your pick-tomato, meat, wild boar, garlic and olive oil, mushroom, pesto, sage, etc. Light, but filling and delicious.

The first couple of days, we felt compelled to follow this with the meat course-thought it was "expected" of us. Ridiculous. A little wild boar or florentine bistecca was enough-though very good-to stuff us like pigs. After that, we followed the pasta course with insalata mista-a mixed salad--, had two cappuccinos-(a no-no after 10 am. Supposed to order espresso-but to hell with that. The cappuccino was extraordinary in all cases)-and resumed touring.

Back to the tour! We would hit one of these small towns first thing in the morning, then eat a big meal, then continue in that town or hit another in the afternoon. By evening, we were back at Palazzo Bandino on our patio, tablecloth spread, a fresh bottle of wine opened, a salad of romaine lettuce, finocchio, tomatoes and olives, drenched in olive oil and with a touch of vinegar, five different cheeses, some fresh baked bread, some espresso and a glass of grappa. I didn't mention grappa? Well, another time, perhaps. Right now, dusk is falling, the cuckoo birds are saying "cuckoo" and it is time for bed.

Each town had one or more, sometimes many, special attractions, plus some local product for which it was known. For instance, the little town of Monterchi has Piero Della Francesca's "Madonna del Parto", the only known painting of the Madonna pregnant, about to give birth. Monte Oliveto Maggiore has a great church and a cloister with 36 frescoes depicting the life of St. Benedict, some by Luca Signorelli, some by Il Sodoma. It also has a terrific restaurant at the gate and some fine grappa made by the friars. Montepulciano, besides the Vino Nobile and its share of churches and public buildings, is next door to the magnificent church of Our Lady of San Biagio, said to be the favorite of many, including Frances Mayes. Radicofani is a castle at the very top of a hill, visible and controlling the countryside for miles, once the hideout of a Robin Hood-like outlaw. We climbed to the top of the tower and were alone.

Volterra has 8th century B.C. Etruscan ruins, 1st century B.C. Roman ruins, and wonderful pieces of locally-crafted alabaster at shops all over town. Castiglione del Lago, besides the usual splendid buildings, has the Cantina Sociale, a winery where you can show up with a big jug and fill it from one of three gasoline-type pumps-seriously--, one containing red, one white, and one wine from Sangiovese grapes. The wine out of these pumps is 50 cents a liter, and is as good as you are accustomed to drinking. Passagnano, on the other shore of Lago Trasimeno, has a busy Saturday market and a couple of stores with loads of great hand-painted majolica. Arezzo features the story of the Holy Cross in the Church of San Francesco, 11 frescoes said to be the masterpiece of Della Francesca, and the magnificent house of Giorgio Vasari, decorated in 1540. It, like most of the towns, has both an art museum and an archeological museum. Once a month, if you are lucky enough to catch it, there is a town-wide market-not what you would think of as a flea market, but a series of vendors each selling one or more related products. Siena has the truly wonderful Piazza Del Campo, the Palazzo Pubblico, and, to view the whole thing, the Torre del Mangia, a 286-foot tower that, naturally, we had to climb like all the others.

I could go on and on about these towns, about Perugia-try the pizza at L'Era Nuovo and it will change your thinking about pizza--and Assisi-- the tomb of St. Francis, and two masses that we stumbled into in that magnificent church. I could tell you about the processions we ran into in Montepulciano and Monticchiello and the really interesting people we met and "spoke" with. But you don't need this information from me. Buy the green Michelin guides to Tuscany, Umbria and Italy, and decide for yourself what you want to see.

Three of our "city" trips need to be mentioned. For Dreena's birthday, we took the train to Venice and stayed for three days at the Hotel Montecarlo-booked for us by InItaly. Another winner, this place was about 40 yards from San Marco-St. Mark's Square-and you could go everywhere you wanted to go on foot (there are 400 bridges over the canals). The only bad thing I can say about this converted palace-great rooms-is that they sent us off on a "complimentary boat ride" to an island called Murano. In fact, we were actually shanghaied to a glass factory where we saw some inconsequential glass making activity (you can see about 10 times as much in Jamestown, Virginia, if you are interested), and were then turned over to a suit who introduced us to some fabulous glass sculpture selling for $5,000 to $40,000. We passed on this and got them to let us out of the locked gates so that we could walk to town, where we had an unbelievable Risotto for two before catching the vaporetto-water bus-back to Venice. They were very nice, no pressure, and they even offered to ship us back. I just think the desk guys could have been a little more candid about the "complimentary boat ride".

St. Mark's Basilica, of course, is incredible-huge, and covered with religious art from floor to ceiling, but all in mosaic tiles, typically about a half inch square. There are probably 50 million pieces of tile in this church. You have to see it. Also, you'll want to see (and shop) the Rialto Bridge, the church of St. John & St. Paul, and the square itself, including the tower, the Campanile (very tall, but thankfully served by an elevator). Most of all you have got to be on the square at night. The square is probably the size of three football fields and is surrounded by interesting buildings, including St. Mark's cathedral. There are three cafés on the square, two on one side and one on the other. They are the Quadry, the Florian and the Lavena. Each has a lot of history, a few dozen chairs and tables on the square, and each has a canopy which covers a stage on which 5-piece orchestras (2 violins, piano, bass and accordion) composed of first-class musicians play marvelous classical music, with an occasional "New York, New York" thrown in. The crowd without tables roams the square, listens to one orchestra play 3 numbers, and when they break, moves on to the next, circling around the square continuously. The rest pick their favorites, (we picked the Lavena) get a table, maybe buy some roses from a vendor if their best girl is, say, celebrating her birthday, and drink Prosecco while the night winds out. Does the word "Unforgettable" convey my meaning?

Gondola ride? Yes, we did one for the birthday, but since we are water and boat people here at home, it was no big deal. One of those things that I guess you have to do.

Rome was another 3-day train trip. It is, of course, a great city and a big, crowded city. Though we liked it, it was our least favorite spot of the month. We walked all over, from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza del Popolo, the Borghese Museum (great-but reserve tickets through InItaly.com or you might stand in line for two hours. It'll cost you an extra ten bucks a ticket, but is well worth it), and from the Borghese past the Trevi Fountain to the magnificent Pantheon, maybe the single most spectacular building we saw, all the way past the forum to the Coliseum, an incredible building, but one literally soaked in blood if that would affect your perception of it. Then we did the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican-in short, all of the obligatory tourist stops. In the cities, we ate lightly at midday, split a pizza for example, and had our main meal at night. In Rome, Mario's, around the corner from our hotel, was an excellent choice.

As for our hotel, it was in the vicinity of the Spanish Steps, which may account for the name "Hotel Madrid". We booked this one directly, and, generally speaking, it was not bad, though not on the same level as the Montecarlo. What we will never forget about it, however, is this: Our room was on the first floor (you would consider it the second) about 14 feet above a small street enclosed by buildings. We slept with the windows and shutters open (no air conditioning). Each of the two nights we were there, between around 11 p.m. and 4 a.m., bands of crazy hooligans ran up and down this street every 5 minutes or so, shouting at the tops of their lungs. With the echo chamber provided by the buildings and the stone street, this was really stunning! More than, say, 3 hours' sleep was impossible. The desk offered several explanations for these mini-riots, ranging from "overflow from a nearby disco", to something related to soccer games, to just plain, old-fashioned anarchy-type demonstrations. None of the explanations was sufficiently convincing for us to assume that this was a one-time event. Thus, we cannot recommend the place. Come to think of it, perhaps our slightly jaundiced view of Rome had something to do with lack of sleep!

Finally, we come to Florence. A wonderful place about which you can read from the pens of all kinds of writers. So, while I won't add to the chorus, I can tell you that both the Uffizzi Gallery and the Galleria Dell'Academia lived up to their reputations as world-class art museums-again, we paid a few bucks extra and got advance tickets from InItaly. We shot right in the door, leaving behind long lines of sweaty people who had to wait. Likewise, the city lives up to its reputation as a marvelous place to buy leather goods of all kinds at reasonable prices-be sure to save some room in your luggage to get it home. Or, better yet, go to the mall and buy a cheap suitcase so that you can fill it up! Jewelry, restaurants, the Ponte Vecchio, the Cathedral and its Tower, the Baptistery with the so-called "Gate of Paradise", the Church of Santa Croce, the Palazzo Vecchio (another climb to the top), and on and on. The beauty of it all is truly dizzying. Do some research ahead of time so that you spend your days wisely, as there is enough to see here to keep you busy for months. Take particular notice of the Piazza della Signoria, with the Fountain of Neptune strategically located to cover the spot where Friar Savonarola was burned at the stake in 1498. It seems that the spot was becoming a venerated one, bedecked with flowers and symbols, and that the bunch then in power did not like it. So they built the fountain. It so happens that May 23 is the anniversary date of the Friar's death, and we were there that day. Sure enough, a wreath appeared next to the fountain. It was nice to know why it was there.

If you want to be able to go where you want, when you want to, pick your own times of arrival and departure, your own restaurants and travel your own path altogether, this is the way to do it. Don't let anxiety about being in a strange country where people don't speak your language cause you to take a tour. You can do it exactly the way we did, making your own trails and climbing your own hills and driving your own races on the autostrada. So go for it!

John Yacovelle, Washington, D.C.

My family and I just returned from six days in the Lucca/ Florence area. We loved the mountain hill towns north of Lucca, and would recommend visiting these small villages and towns, perched high in the Apuan Alps. We attended a wedding in Gioviano, just north of Borgo a Mozzano and could not believe the breathtaking views.They also have a lovely pizzzeria which serves delicious food and homemede wine. Don't miss the Devils Bridge in Borgo a Mozzano - it was featured in a recent issue of Wine Spectator. The town of Barga also has beautiful views and a lovely little park like restaurant with a fountain where you can eat outside. Bagni di Lucca was another lovely town close by. You will need a car to see the hill towns - we were very pleased with our rental - we were upgraded to a Mercedes at no extra charge- Thanks Patrick! We also traveled to Viareggio which was very crowded - even on a rainy day - but there was some good shopping and it was fun to watch the fashion parade as people strolled the promenade. We did a whirlwind tour of Florence on our last day and a half - not long enough, and I think we were in shock at the noise after coming from the mountains. We stayed at the Hotel Argentina, it was okay but I don't think I would stay there again. I would definitely recommend the villa we stayed at in the mountains and will e-mail the information later. All in all it was a lovely, memorable trip. We are already looking forward to our next trip to Italy.

Eileen F.

We had one piece of trouble with the train system in Italy. I would like to know if you know to whom I could raise a formal complaint.

The errors were:

1. issuing an invalid ticket combination
2. conductor wakes passengers up in the middle of the night
3. passengers forced to pay immediately (I expect if I had not paid I would have been removed to a second class berth or forced out of the train)
4. no receipt for payment issued at the time of payment - conductor assured me I was not paying a penalty! I lost some sleep from this piece of extortion of course. Eventually the conductor brought a receipt to me in the morning. And assured me that I was not paying him personally.
5. Conductor was as far as I can see protecting himself from paying a penalty from his own salary if the train had traveled with a non paying passenger. He was forced to do this by the train boss.

This last item is the unethical use of the employee(s) by the train system. This is what should be exposed even if there is an apology. The policy of distrust of the employees and appeal to their own self-protection is what has produced the fear of being ripped off by their client and the subsequent abuse of their clients.

The first words from train conductor on entering the train: "Do you want breakfast? Capucino is free but you have to pay for the bun." And this on a trip costing over 400,000 Lire - it shows a mixup in 'first' class was pending. --- here's how I described the errors in an email -

Last week we climbed the dome of the cathedral of Florence. During the climb, you walk through the single large fresco on the dome which depicts hell then purgatory then heaven all in one huge image from devils swallowing humans live to Christ in Glory. Heaven and hell in one large Dante-esque picture. There are four hundred+ steps to the top of the dome.

Then we visited Venice for four days including magnificent services at the Medieval cathedral of St Mark for Easter Vigil and Easter Day. At the Sanctus one felt the bells before hearing them. The gold high altar and the gold leaf frescos all over the five-domed building are breathtaking in their beauty.

Leaving Venice at night, we got on the train and went to bed in our first class sleeper to Naples only to be awakened by a sharp knock on the door - The conductor had discovered that our berth was first class [ticket # 8715856,7, and 8] and but our tickets were second class. I have to document the system failures from one ticket agent [in Spoleto] issuing the contradiction to the conductor's fear that if he didn't correct the situation immediately, he would have to pay the difference. It is no way to treat a client to wake him at night to ask for his money!!! I'm sure none of you would think of doing this. The details are hilarious in retrospect, but I did let my anger go sufficiently to wake up a few other passengers so as to increase the possibility of additional compaints.

The next day we arrived in Sorrento - the only place we had no prior reservations. After many phone calls, the tourist office booked us in a Hotel called Septimo Cielo (Seventh Heaven) - little knowing that we had come from the ninth circle of Hell - naked in front of a Conductor asking for more money in the middle of the night!

Sorrento has glorious views, we are like birds on a nest in a cliffside overlooking the gulf of Naples (300 metres directly above the sea).

Bob M.

We rented a car in Florence and drove through Tuscany and Umbria, down to Naples. The roads were MUCH better marked than we had anticipated and we had no problems at all (except for the one wrong turn which brought us onto the autostrata just in front of the toll booth - even though we tried to explain that we weren't on the highway, it cost us 10,000 Lire). The drive through Tuscany (a first for us) was wonderful. We visited San Gimagnano (a must see), Perugia (too big and industrial), Assisi, Orvieto (we ate in a Grotto - the restaurant was built into the cave - original walls intact - food was ok ). We climbed towers in every town. Orvieto has a fabulous Duomo. The facade is one of the prettiest I've seen. About 20 minutes from Orvieto is Civita-Bagnoregio. Twin towns - Civita is a walled city perched on top of a mountain with only a walking bridge to connect it to Bagnoregio. Only 14 people live here. There is a 3 room B & B and a restaurant in the B & B which is run by an english speaking, Franco. He sat with us while we ate and told us how to cook each dish. The inhabitants must walk to Bagnoreggio to purchase all staples as there are no stores in Civita. Really a charm!

My grandparents are from a little town near Ravello on the Amalfi coast. For those who wish to visit Italy for family history research - they may be interested to know that the "Municipale" building which housed the police department, in this small town, also housed all the birth, death and marriage records. Unbelievably, we were able to trace our history back one generation on my grandfather's side and TWO generations on my grandmothers. I actually got copies of marriage certificates for my great and great-great grandparents!!! Now it happens that their village is one of a half dozen that belong to the same "commune" and I lucked out that their village housed the records. But for anyone looking, this may be of help - if the local village does not have the records, find out which other villages are part of the "commune" and one of them may have the records you are looking for.

We took the Tirrenia line ferry from Naples to Palermo. They also go from Naples, Rome, Genova to Sardenia and Sicily to Tunisia. It's also a car ferry. They have a web site at www.Tirrenia.com (in italian) but that is not where I pulled up a schedule. I found it just playing around, I think somewhere under transportation in Italy. I can't remember, nor find it again!! While we were in Nocera (north of Naples) we went to a travel agency and they booked it for us. We had a private room (it had 4 beds - bunks) with a toilet and shower for 215,200 Lire for the two of us. The travel agency was Nomada Tours, telephone 081 5173333, fax 081 5178616. We spoke to Rosa, who spoke english. The taxi from Napoli Centrale train station was about 30,000 Lire; the ship left about 8PM, arrived about 7:30am.

We spent four days in Sicily touring 700 bc greek temples. Great trip. Thank you to In Italy for arranging our tour with Federico and our car rental!

Gail Mancuso Jensen

In your Sicily (and the rest of Italy?) instructions you should put in CAPITAL LETTERS that all car doors should be kept firmly locked at all times (except getting out and in, of course) and all windows kept shut. Why? On our first day in Catania, we were proceeding slowly down a narrow one way street when a Vespa/small motorbike suddenly swerved towards us going in the wrong direction, the rider stopping immediately in front of us about 2 inches from the front of the car. While we were distracted by this, his compadre wrenched open the front passenger door and grabbed Karen's handbag, then fled along the street. This was witnessed by bystanders and by the cars behind us. No one batted an eyelid - its obviously very common. We reported the loss of the handbag and its contents - passports, driving licenses, mobile phone, eyeglasses, gold pens, electronic organizer (with all our phone numbers), calculator, spare insulin, HRT tablets, wallet with £50, etc to the carabinieri who said it was a standard procedure….Luckily our other passports, money and insulin kit were in my jacket pocket, so we could continue our trip round Sicily.

On our last day in Catania, exactly the same thing happened, but the car doors were now locked and they failed miserably.

With best regards
CHRIS C

FYI - The airlines are starting to be swamped with Holy Year travelers and are way overbooking. Yesterday, when we arrived at Fiumicino (2 hours early as dictated) for our confirmed flight home, we were kept waiting in line to check in for so long that when we got to the counter our seats had been given away, and we only got on the plane because the agent worked until he found two empty seats, but they were not together. My advice is get to the airport REALLY early if you want the seats you had selected. Or any seat at all. Otherwise, plan to spend at least one night at the airport Hilton.

Don't try to go to the major tourist sites in Rome for the rest of this year, especially the Vatican Museums. Instead. . .some spots less traveled:

Newly open to the public is the Passeta di Borgo, the covered walkway that extends from St. Peter's Basilica to Castel Sant'Angelo. The walkway was used to transport items in the papal treasury to safety inside the fortified Castel, and also three times as an escape route for the Pope. You will walk part of the way inside the wall, then for some distance along the top beween the crenelated battlements. The glimpses into the Borgo as you walk above it are memorable. Tours are given on Saturday and Sunday by reservation (06 39080730,) and begin at the museum shop in Castel Sant'Angelo.

For a little excursion with a minimum of walking near, but not in, the crowds around the Pantheon, start at Piazza Sant'Ignazio. The trompe l'oeil ceiling in the church has just been restored and is exquisite. It is best seen in bright sunlight. Then, for very unusual and beautiful women's knitwear, hats and leather bags make a hard left coming out of the church and walk down Via di S. Ignazio to #38, Ilcuoiocucitoamano (don't try to pronounce it.). The senora carries the perfect antidote to all that look-alike designer clothing that doesn't come bigger than a size 6. For a lovely meal after shopping, walk back to the piazza and turn left onto Via del Seminario to #122, Le Due Colonne Ristorante. Anything you order will be delicious but the zuppa di funghi, bresoala all'arancia, and the bistecca are splendid.

For a quiet relaxing Sunday way off the beaten path go up the Janiculum Hill to the Fontana Paola. There isn't a more beautiful view of the city than from this overlook. Then walk on to the Passeggiata del Gianicolo, and have a stroll with the Romans. There are puppet shows, pony rides, and a place with beautiful views to sit and have a sandwich and a glass of wine. Afterwards, go back to your hotel and have a long nap. Then get up and have a great dinner.

Pamela K and Nick P

InItaly is a great, informative site. My husband and I (members of the Boston Jazz Society) enjoyed paging thru the Umbria section as we have traveled to Umbria the last two years. We went to Umbria specifically to attend Umbria Jazz, an annual jazz festival held in Perugia usually in early to mid-July. This is a fabulous event which attracts Europeans and Americans alike. In fact, there is a music school in Boston, Berklee College of Music, that always sends a large contingent of jazz professors to attend the festival and conduct educational workshops during the festival. Last year (1999) we saw the incomparable Milt Jackson in the Teatro Moriacchi, and the year before we heard Ornette Coleman, among others. In addition to famous headliners (Herbie Hancock also performed in 99), dozens of lesser know jazz musicians perform (free) in outdoor venues day and night. The music doesn't stop until 3 or 4 a.m. and resumes the following afternoon. This festival goes on for about l0 days in July and is well worth mentioning on your extensive and very informative site. For information on Umbria Jazz, fax 075 572 2656 (Italy). If you have questions that we can answer for you, please email: us at: alsalaw@aol.com. Keep up the good work and thank you for a terrific Web site on Italy. Sherry Walker, 617-266-5673

Hi, Kristin,

We are just back from Italy, a wonderful stay. Venice was indeed fantastic and upstairs in San Marco bowled me over, but the single most amazing place was outside the city, on Torcello, with its 1500 year old cathedral. I shall be delighted to babble on in case you haven't been there, but I'll hold off because you probably have. At any rate, thought I'd pass along news about a couple of places we found through your website and one little discovery of our own.

In Verona we stayed at the Hotel de' Capuleti (your recommendation - the other was booked solid because of the Campionato Mondiali di Ciclismo; as cyclists ourselves, we were thrilled to have stumbled upon it, making us the envy of our cycling friends). A very nice place all in all, with one of those big breakfasts business hotels offer. The big deal was that by chance we were given a room in a modernized section with A JACUZZI. Marian loves jacuzzis and after a couple of days of pounding marble and cobblestone it was a real treat. Advise people to ask for room 22. Probably room 12 directly beneath it has one too, but we don't know for sure. Other rooms don't seem to have it and in any event our room was more spacious than rooms in the other section-Marian peeked into some-and it also has double windows, handy since it's a very noisy street at night (truck traffic leaving the city).

Also in Verona, we came upon a wonderful restaurant, Osteria Sgarzerie, Corte Sgarzarie, 14/A, 0339.443.4208. It's just off one of the big streets near the Arena. and the Piazza d'herbe, maybe Mazzini. Excellent wine list, knowledgeable waiters, modest prices and adventuresome cuisine, including a pasta with shredded chicken and tartuffo that was the best dish either of us had on the entire trip and a baccala with polenta that was out of this world. It was here, though, that we came upon a disturbing new trend: cigar smoking. Some young German matinee idol was wooing an even younger blonde and impressing her with the cigar. The waiter said he could do nothing about it since il padrone was selling cigars right there in the restaurant. The food makes it worth the risk, though. Dinner for two came in at about L100,000 with house wine. Non-house wines go up to L200,000, maybe higher. Here we learned that even red wines are traditionally served chilled, a big change from everything I've learned about wines. The house wine almost always means Bardolino, which is pretty thin but got progressively better the more we ate in local restaurants.

In Venice we were among the first to stay at the annex to Do Pozzi, another of your recommendations. A curious experience. The rooms are bright, large and decently furnished though they won't wow luxury seekers. Security is impenetrable, with new electronic double door locks. But it's in an alley and the absence of light and street noise can be disorienting, like a sensory deprivation tank. The hotel staff is very friendly and checkout is generously at noon instead of 10 or 11, which leaves time to explore the sights even on the day you check out.

Close by, near La Fenice is a wine bar called Vino Vino, where the food is the best we had in Venice (mind you we're budget travelers). A very affluent Venetian friend took us there for lunch. It has the luxury of being open until 11:30 PM or so. Our friend said six wine bars in Venice got together and agreed to stay open late for dining. Vino Vino is on the Calle del Sartor Da Veste off the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the swanky shopping street near the Piazza San Marco. (Follow the signs for La Fenice, the restoration of which seems at least another year from completion thanks to some local politics we learned about from our friend.) Incidentally, we saw no little gypsy kids and though we were warned both by the hotel staff and our friend about pickpockets cleverly disguised as lost tourists we had no trouble whatsoever. Plenty of police seemed in evidence on XXII Marzo, maybe because Venice is getting a reputation. Also about food, we passed a lot of terribly expensive places, tried the restaurant owned by Do Pozzi (overpriced and mediocre) and ultimately came to enjoy the Taverna San Trovaso, a place where large groups of college kids from the Accademmia and some local folks hang out (it's not at all loud, though). It's in all the guidebooks though we discovered it by change, blundering into some kids from Boston. I'd confirm it as a real bargain with very respectable basic food and friendly waiters. The address is Dorsoduro 1016 , one the fondamente between the Accademmia and the Zattere vaporetto stop. Apropos, right next to the Zattere dock is Nico's, with fantastic gelato, especially melone. Also, we found the area right near the railroad station the liveliest in Venice in the early evening, very much like Rome with lots of street markets and local folk doing their shopping. A little later, the markets closed and it was quiet again. By the way, people who visit Torcello will probably also stop at Burano. On Mazzorbo, attached to Burano by a footbridge right near the dock, is Antica Trattoria "alla Maddalena." Food was excellent, salad greens came straight from the garden and they serve wild duck on special evenings. It's right along the canal. (A D&K recommendation.)

Our Venetian friend says, by the way, that there is no longer a season without tourists in Venice and it drives them crazy. Carnevale is apparently clogged with tourists, making the Venetians hate us even more.

Our other discovery, though not in Venice, is the oddly named Hotel Golf & Suisse in Sirmione on the southern end of Largo di Garda. (We got the name from the Italian Motor Club guide). It's pretty new, plain, comfortable and costs L135,000 a night for a double. Family owned, it serves great hefty breakfasts full of salumi, formaggi, cereali, yogurt e perfino uovo because there are so many German tourists around. It's a pleasant 20 minute walk from the centro storico, which has several very nice restaurants-the hotel people made wonderful recommendations-as well as the ruins of Catulus's estate on the tip of the peninsula. Phone number is (030)9904590, Fax (030) 916304, Internet www.gardalake.it/rossi-aparthotel and e-mail www.rossiapts/tzm.it. The owner, Signor Rossi-who also rents apartments by the day, week or month--picked us up and dropped us off at the train station too. We couldn't see the Alps on the northern end of the lake because of the haze that pervades the area during autumn, which a friend in Florence says it's from farmers burning their fields while other people say is industrial smog. Either way, we had no clear days at all in the Veneto, though we had no rain either. The Golf & Suisse is right on the lake and has its own dock.

In Bologna we learned from another friend that the Eurostar trains are being informally forced upon a lot of people at a higher price. It was worth the price for us. The morning of our departure from Bologna to Milan for the flight home at noon, several other Milan-bound trains were hours late but the Eurostar was right on time, lucky for us since anything else would have been a disaster.

Everyone in Italy says Italy will be total chaos next year. One friend puts the blame on the Pope's overmarketing of il Giubileo, but Bologna has some rival activities of its own for the year 2000 so who knows. Meanwhile anything that could possibly be restored IS being restored. I couldn't get to see my favorite piece of sculpture in all of Italy, which is in the church of Santa Maria della vita in Bologna.

That's the news from Lake Wobegon. Re-entry is difficult as usual but after three days the computer knows me again and doesn't crash too often. Hope the info is useful. We remember your help gratefully.

Ciao,
Bernie L.

Went to Italy this year with my daughter. I have spent many years trying to find information on my grandparents who I know nothing about, so my children all gave me a trip to italy. Went to Rome-saw beautiful vatican chapel and many other churches which were just incredible. The art work is mind boggling.Then we went to Perugia where my father was born-I didn't have any luck in my research,and my daughter was sad for me, but told her this is my father's homeland and I was happy and at peace just to be there. The people in Florence were wonderful and the food is great.You won't go hungry there. Michelangelo's house had beautiful paintings,and I just marveled at his talent. Stopped at a cafe where music was playing outdoors. Danced with some other people-drank some wine which helped the joyous mood. Didn't want to leave. Even tho we didn't speak a lot of Italian we managed to get around with the help of the Italian people. If I had to describe Italy it would be- People loving-great talent in art-music. Sights splendid and massive fountains-buildings-churches. Countryside is filled with Sun Flower fields in Tuscany. Go to Italy and see this wonderful land. I have one of the greatest gifts to have visited this land: Bella Italia!!!!!!

Doris G.
dgorman@fast.net

Last October, we stayed at a friends winery in chianti Classico (Castello La leccia just outside Castellina. The nearest city is Siena.

Castellina is a village of 2500 people with a three block long center. Great shopping especially Saturday Morning which is market day. We had a wonderful Porchetta (Roast Pork) sandwich from a truck.

Monte Oliveto Maggiore- Monastery outside Montepulciano. Il Sodoma's very erotic fresco's the highlight here. Stunning! Also panels by Signorelli, great woodworking in the chapel, gregorian chants at service. Beautiful grounds, in middle of desolate section of Toscanna called the crete. Must see to believe.

St Antimo- South of Montalcino, ancient church woth incredible carvings.

San Galgano- roofless ruins of old monestary dominated by pidgeons, creepy and profound. Next door is a round Romanesque church with a representation of the Sword in the Stone ledgend and some fresco's by one of the Ambrosetti's (not sure if this is the artist's name).

DL17200@aol.com

I visited Italy in June of 1977. One of the most memoroible moments was taking the ferry, that is the slow ferry from Naples to Capri. As I remember, we left in the early morning. I was struck by the sight of people eating large portions of food for breakfeast, but I just thought people were hungry and put it out of my mind. About half way to Capri, as the ship riding in some long swells, you should have seen the bee line to the bathroom. In no short order the bathroom became clogged up and people started going over the side. I never saw so many people sea sick as I did that day. I was so glad I didn't eat a big meal and glad I took a slice of lemon offered to me by an elderly women who was laughing as she was cutting up lemon slices and passing them out to people. The crew sure had a time of cleaning up the deck that day.

Nick Linsalatare

Just a word to the wise--if skiing in Cervinia---be careful as they have the bathrooms that are just holes in the floor---It is funny because they have such excellent restaurants and then their bathroom conditions are pitiful--A few of the higher quality restaurants have real bathrooms--Ask before you select your restaurants.......Cervinia is beautiful sunny skiing---nice long well marked runs-----We stayed in Zermatt, Switzerland and it is also beautiful skiing----the restaurants on the slopes are not as good in Switzerland but they have real bathrooms....The Matterhorn is so stunning you must see it in person---Take the Air Zermatt Helicopter tour (20 minutes) that is SPECTACULAR--first you fly over numerous glaciers---and then circle the Matterhorn and you can see the French Alps, SwissAlps, and Italian Alps--then if you ski---the Big Bonus--they drop you off at the top and you decide whether to ski Italy to Switzerland.....the best "Lift" ticket in the world and you miss all the jammed,crowded,stinky cable cars etc. The flight is about $120.00 U.S. and is worth ever penny--go on a sunny day---the Air Zermatt staff is exceptional... at least 4 people to a flight but if you have smaller numbers they can pair you with other riders. I went with three German men who were as thrilled as I was with the whole experience. My girlfriend--who I will not mention--and I have a motto we would like to have printed on T-Shirts for the Italians-----"YOU GIVE US A HOLE-WE PISS IN YOUR SINK" Now this may be too tacky to print but you have to admit it is funny, You may delete sections of my Reader's Report as needed. Also--When skiing in Europe---No One tells you this---but leave as many things as you can outside the bathroom on a table with a friend as they do not have shelves, baskets etc. available in most bathrooms----like your gloves,sunglasses, hat ,etc. Also if you want to go in the HOLE and not the sink we reccommend two piece suits---When shopping in Switzerland we wondered why they have no one piece suits like in America....and then we found out the hard way....THE HOLE. Our whole trip was wonderful but just had to share this important piece of information with fellow skiers..............

Reanee Spratt
Dallas, Texas

I'm from the U.S.; I live in Japan. I'm married to a Japanese girl, and I took her and her family to Italy for a 2-week vacation in Feb.,'99. In Rome, we found a tour company, Green Line Tours, that offered to take us on a one-day excursion to Pompeii, and bring us back the same day. Their brochure quoted 2 prices: 210,000 Lira for the tour with an English-speaking guide, and 260,000 Lira for the tour with a Japanese-speaking guide. I didn't like the difference in their prices, but went along with the Japanese-guided tour because neither my wife nor the rest of her family understands any English. I found out only that morning, on Feb. 22, minutes before we set out, that there was only one bus in which they stuck us with the English tour. I asked if at least I could pay the English fare instead, because I understand English and wanted to save myself 50,000 Lira. They said OK, but that the Japanese tour and the English tour would be separated in Pompeii, and I would have to go with the English group if I only paid the English fare. Thinking it over, I decided I didn't want to be separated from my family in Pompeii, and reluctantly paid the full Japanese fare. But here's the best part! When we arrived in Pompeii, one of the tour attendants that accompanied us from Rome came up to us and said: "The Japanese guide is off today, so we'll have to make do." I asked her what she meant by "make do". She said that we would have to stay with the English group, and she would translate what was being said into Japanese as best she could. I've been living in Japan for over 20 years, and I can assure you that that Italian girl spoke Japanese like my dog recites the Illiad in Greek. That good! I was furious. And that wasn't all. She added that she was not a licensed guide, so should any policeman ask, we were to pretend that she wasn't giving us a tour in any way. I was pissed. I demanded a full refund and wanted to take my family on the first train back to Rome. She only reiterated that it wasn't her fault, but finally when I threatened to take the case to a policeman standing nearby, she got on the phone to her office in Rome. Pronto! We ended up getting back the difference between the English fare and the Japanese fare, 50,000 Lira for 5 persons, but it was the worst tour I've ever been on. My family and I had a rotten time. And in the wake of all this, there was not one word of apology. First of all, there ought to be a law against charging different prices depending on your national language. Second, like hell they really have a licensed Japanese guide! Anybody know of a good way to put them behind bars? Or anybody with similar experiences, please E-mail me.

My E-mail address is: rstmns@ops.dti.ne.jp

Hi,

My husband and I stayed several nights each at the Hotel Canada in Rome and at the Hotel Royal in Florence (last week in December/first week in January).

We were very pleased with the Hotel Canada--neat, clean rooms, and excellent breakfasts. We also liked Hotel Canada because it is within walking distance of the train station. An unexpected benefit of its "non-touristy" location is the proximity of good, inexpensive restaurants for dinner.

We stayed four nights at the Hotel Royal--unexpectedly. We had booked another nearby hotel, but found that it did not meet our expectations. We just wandered into the Royal late Saturday evening and were able to get a very nice room thanks to a wonderful gentleman at the front desk who was sympathetic to our plight. Breakfasts don't match the Canada's, but we did enjoy our visit. An added benefit for Catholics is that there is a church less than one block away. The Royal is also nicely located for parents of Pepperdine students--the Villa is just a 10-minute walk away. Also staying outside of Florence's main tourist district forced us to do more walking and explore parts of the city we might have otherwise missed.

JoRita DeFrancesco

I found some great maps of Italy by contacting Ourheritage@earthlink.net. They have street maps which are fantastic for the tourist!...of different cities etc.

SeaNSurfTr@aol.com

Would like to recommend the Girlander Hof Hotel in Girlan. We are familiar with this hotel since it is owned by the daughter of the Fam.Dellago who own and operate the Hotel Schloss Korb across the valley in Missen. We had spent a number of very enjoyable days at the Schloss on several trips to Europe and were told that their daughter had taken over this older property in Girlan and did a total (from ground up) remodel of the property.

We have stayed at the Girlander Hof and it is the most enjoyable small hotel in the Sudtirol. The food is excellent, the rooms sparkle and the proprietor is a wonderful host who speaks fluent English.

Dave & Gerrie Wilhem

We have just returned from a month in northern Italy on our own doing family research. Please include in your updates that the bathroom facilities in the train stations are holes in the floor. For people who are seniors this is not an easy thing to do with no support handles. We traveled by train all over the country and they are excellent. Also, please advise people that Rio Maggiore has no taxi, bus, or car rentals and that it is uphill to the hotels and a very steep one I might add, and when you have four pieces of luggage that is no easy task. Another town worth mentioning is Aglie which has the palace of the House of Savoy. It is south if Ivrea in the Piedmont area. I am surprise to find so little said about Piedmont.

Our trip to Torino, Lusiglie, Aglie, Cuceglio, Rio Maggiore, Monosumano, Venice and Milan, also Lugano SW and Nice,FR was truly wonderful. The people of Italy are very friendly. Thank you.

Shirley

This year I booked an Hotel on the internet and received a reply to the effect that they were pleased to welcome us and the booking was confirmed. This was the Hotel Forte via Margutta, Rome. We took with us the faxed confirmation of the booking. Two days before we arrived in Rome friends called us at our Naples hotel to say the Forte had no knowledge of us. We immediately called the Hotel to be told that of course they were expecting us in two days and looked forward to our stay. We assumed someone had got their wires crossed when our friends visited. Not so. When we turned up at the Forte they denied any knowkedge of us. However, when the fax was produced they suddenly found our record. During this time another couple arrived and inquired if accommodation was available and were assured it was. They left as the cost was too high for their budget. In spite of this we were given a small scruffy room in the process of renovation with wires hanging out of the wall and a bathroom so disgusting I was loth to us it. For this we were charged the hotel's top price. As we were only staying one night in Rome on that occasion and it was too late to change we accepted the accommodation. I warn any visitors to Rome to give the FORTE a wide berth!!!!

Our favourite in Rome is the Hotel Margutta in the via Laurina where we have stayed many times over the years.

It is a small family run hotel with courteous friendly and helpful staff. Immaculately clean, idealy positioned near the Piazza del Popolo, it charges $75US which includes private bathroom and breakfast.

Dallas Fairmaid - New Zealand.

We have just returned from a month in northern Italy on our own doing family research. Please include in your updates that the bathroom facilities in the train stations are holes in the floor. For people who are seniors this is not an easy thing to do with no support handles. We traveled by train all over the country and they are excellent. Also, please advise people that Rio Maggiore has no taxi, bus, or car rentals and that it is uphill to the hotels and a very steep one I might add, and when you have four pieces of luggage that is no easy task. Another town worth mentioning is Aglie which has the palace of the House of Savoy. It is south if Ivrea in the Piedmont area. I am surprise to find so little said about Piedmont.

Our trip to Torino, Lusiglie, Aglie, Cuceglio, Rio Maggiore, Monosumano, Venice and Milan, also Lugano SW and Nice,FR was truly wonderful. The people of Italy are very friendly. Thank you. Shirley

This year I booked an Hotel on the internet and received a reply to the effect that they were pleased to welcome us and the booking was confirmed. This was the Hotel Forte via Margutta, Rome. We took with us the faxed confirmation of the booking. Two days before we arrived in Rome friends called us at our Naples hotel to say the Forte had no knowledge of us. We immediately called the Hotel to be told that of course they were expecting us in two days and looked forward to our stay. We assumed someone had got their wires crossed when our friends visited. Not so. When we turned up at the Forte they denied any knowkedge of us. However, when the fax was produced they suddenly found our record. During this time another couple arrived and inquired if accommodation was available and were assured it was. They left as the cost was too high for their budget. In spite of this we were given a small scruffy room in the process of renovation with wires hanging out of the wall and a bathroom so disgusting I was loth to us it. For this we were charged the hotel's top price. As we were only staying one night in Rome on that occasion and it was too late to change we accepted the accommodation. I warn any visitors to Rome to give the FORTE a wide berth!!!!

Our favourite in Rome is the Hotel Margutta in the via Laurina where we have stayed many times over the years.

It is a small family run hotel with courteous friendly and helpful staff. Immaculately clean, idealy positioned near the Piazza del Popolo, moderately priced, includes private bathroom and breakfast.
Dallas Fairmaid - New Zealand.

A few years ago we stayed in this nice little hotel a few steps from the beach and with wonderful views. We were there slightly off-season (Sept.), moderately priced. It's a definite recommend.

Just returned from a trip covering Milan, Venice, Rome, Tuscany and Florence. Found that Italy is very well marked and just when you're wondering where to go there always seems to be a sign. However, Florence doesn't seem to have their signs as well put. We got lost many times which is ok if you have the time. MANY one ways and pedestrian zones. And if you need to be on the far side of the Ponte Vecchio, plan for a long way around and don't miss Via Maggio or it will take a LONG time to get back. Many hotels are in pedestrian areas and you can drive through if you can trudge through the scooters and people. However, it's a little scary and takes a clear mind!

Knoblauch, Traci L

We had the pleasure of visiting Italy back in '95 and my wife and I have very fond memories. We stayed in Naples, travelling up to Florence (staying overnight in nunnery!), visiting Pisa, Venice, Rome, Pompeii, Paestum, and Sorrento - all in eight days - a real whirlwind tour! My favorite memories include evening strolls in Florence and Venice, Vatican City, and the Roman ruins. The mountains were magnificent and the food was always great! I'm bookmarking this site!

Thanks

Randolph L. Boring

Wish we could say the same about Rapallo's Giulio Cesare. Things got off to a bad start when the proprietress put one couple of our party in a dark dingy room even after we had specified rooms with a sea view in our reservation correspondence several months prior (a condition confirmed by return fax from the hotel). The owner/manager(?) appeared put off by our insistence of a change and did so grudgingly. After that we decided to take only the included breakfast at the hotel, finding several fairly good restaurants nearby for meals during our 3-4 day stay. When the other couple had to return a day early, the proprietress insisted they pay for the fourth night (considered an unwise policy by our genovese friends); and made an angry fuss about it. Finally, when my wife and I were late in arriving at my brother's house on the Cote d'Azur; my brother was told we had never checked-in in response to his worried call to the hotel. All in all, we are left with the impression that the management of the Hotel Giulio Cesare behaved badly nd appears to be more comfortable with Italian, possibly even Ligurian, clientele than with tourists from other countries.

IMAR Corporation

Dear InItaly,
My wife and I had a wonderful honeymoon in Italy...

We started out in the wonderful city of Florence and satyed at the Hotel Continental. With the exception of the room being a tad small, it was great...If you book ask for one of the higher floors, and check out the rooftop deck/bar. very nice almost on the Ponte Vecchio.

for food...try
Ristorante Toto, nice cheap, not gourmet but good food and nice service.

Avoid Avoid Avoid Ristorante Da Mario.....bad service terrible food. a fight broke out while we were there.

Next stop Lucca...IT WAS the BEST!!! Quiet, fun...great accomadations at Villa La Princepessa, tacky decor but the nicest hotel run by a wonderful English woman who has an excellent breakfast buffet and wonderful grounds. For food try Trattoria Giulio by the tourist office. Yummy hometown cooking with excellent service. Note the hotel is about 4 miles outside of town and taxis are not cheap, the bus is available but you have to walk about 1/4 mile down the driveway to get it.

Venice- Okay but people were ruder, food much more expensive. Hotel San cassiano, nice but on the local vapretto so it takes 45 minutes to get to the action . Room 213 very nice view of canal. romantic. Get the vapretto 3 -day pass and go out to lido, it is a much needed break from the hustle and ther are a couple cute pizzerias on the main street. didn't get to glass factories and probably not a major loss.

Rome -hot crowded but nice sites, hotel by trevi fountain, excellent location, american style room nothing fancy. check out the little mom and pop stores around the trevi, A cheap way to get water or tea and some candies compared to the exorbitant prices around the major monuments. Super food at Osteria Marcello. Recommend highly.

i am trying to remember specifics but it's also turning in tax time sorry!
Questions, comments - Bill Vonah

Dear In Italy
I am looking for the name of a film made about the Fosse Ardeatine. I know it was about the bomb that exploded in Via Rasella and the retribution by Hitler and Kappler. If anyone has any information or specifically the name of the movie, I would be extremely grateful. I saw the movie once and have visited the museum in Via Ardeatine south of Porta St. Sebastian and found it extremely interesting and extremely heart wrenching at the same time. I myself am Italian, my family coming from Naples.

Dear Daniel,
The film was called La Rappresaglia in Italian; Massacre in Rome in English. It was made in 1973 by George Pan Cosmatos. Hope you can find it!
Best regards,
Kristin

Dear Kristin
I want to thank you very much for the information you sent me on La Rappresaglia or massacre in Rome. I have been trying for years to find the title of this movie. Last year a friend and I took a trip to Venice but we made a three day stopover in Rome before we continued on to Venice with Alitalia While On the plane going to Rome I related to my friend the movie that I saw around 21 years ago about the massacre.My friend is an avid reader on WW2 and he said he never heard of this story. The amazing thing that happened was on our last day in Rome before we departed Venice my friend asked me if he could see the catacombs so we too a city bus to the outskirts of Rome and transfered to another bus that took us in the area of the catacombs but as we departed from the bus instead of going right up the hill to where the catacombs are located we turned left from the bus and walked down the hill. We came across this beautiful Military Park and so we walked in not knowing where we were. We walked into this beautiful building and in the building we came across this small cave with an iron gate in front of it. There was a sign written in Italian. I am able to talk a little Italian because of my grandmother who used to live with us until she passed away at the age of 100 God bless her but I cannot read Italian.My friend whos name is Mario asked me what this was because it did not look big enough to be the catacombs. I told him I did not know so we continued to follow the sign that said Museo and as we entered this Museo building I had the shock of my life. I immediately saw a picture of a top ranking officer col. kappler his hat and luger in a glass case.I then lost all control of my emotions and in a loud voice I exclaimed "Mario" do you know this is this is the story I told you on the plane and by sheer accident we came across this shrine. Then as we continued on we found the beautiful building with 335 marble coffins spread out on the floor with the name of everyone that was interred within. This is the most fitting shrine for these poor people. To this day I remain incredable at the chain of events that led us to this shrine. My friend and I are in our seventies we both have children and grandchildren and we both retired after 38 years as Firemen with a pension. We are both interested in WW2 history because we partook of that War. My parents came from Naples when they were 7 years old so I learned what little Italian from my Grandmother. I have been to Italy eight times already and if I was ever reborn and I had to choose my race without hesitation I would choose the most beautiful people on the face of this earth.(ITALIAN) I live in connecticut which is near New York and I was born and raised and still live in this city that i reside in. I hope I have not bored you with this long letter but this accidental discivery of the shrine is of such a magnitude that I had to relate it to someone.

Very Sincerely Yours

Daniel A. Montory

For the past several years I and a friend have traveled to Italy visiting a different area each time and always ending in Florence to shop for a few days.

Some of the most memorable trips for economy and beauty are;

We visited Orvietto and at the same time went up to Civita. Walking across a span bridge with view that take your breath away is something not to be missed. A very small almost undiscovered town, Civita also has views of the mountains as none other throughout our travels. The one and only duomo must be seen by the little old lady who care for the church. She can easily be located as she mulls around the church for a good part of the day and will tell you when to come back. You would be best served with a little lire for her effort. There is only one trattoria directly across from the duomo. A must for the not fussy about luxury. If you are really fortunate the people that own the wine cellar will also give you a tour, must be seen. Even compared to the Tuscan region wineries this is a treasure.

The other trip is Rome and Triesteveri. There you can stay at the Del Sole there are two, very reasonable, sort of a place college students will utilize, but not to be disappointed by accommadations. Garden views and all. Walk to Giggetto's trattoria, go late around 9:00pm it is truly for Rome an experience that, at least, in memory will bring you back again and again. The carciofi dipped in a breading and deep fried, no matter the diet this night. The cod (although I do not eat cod in America) is memorable. This trattoria is not inexpensive but worth all. Especially that your Pensione is so inexpensive.

Tonie Papaleo

Hello
Every trip to our roots in Orvieto we stay at the Hotel Maitani; excellent!
True Italian but comfortable for an American-way.
Many of my relatives in Orvieto have the pleasure of the acquaintance of this family-run hotel.
We cannot wait to return,

Cristina

We try to visit Italy every year (no Italian roots; we just feel so "at home" there for some reason! Our hotel choice in Rome is the Hotel Teatro di Pompeo, built on the site of Pompey's Theater, where Julius Caesar was murdered. You can actually see the outline of the theater when you stand out front of the hotel and gaze around the curved line of the little piazza (totally clogged with parked automobiles, unfortunately!) Anyway, it's a very quiet, comfortable hotel (not cheap, but nothing is in Rome!) Right behind the hotel is the Campo di Fiori, and you're in the heart of the old city. Address is Largo del Pallaro 8. Phone is 68300170. FAX: 68805531.

delbert@arias.net

We've just visited Italy. Spent four days in Rome, staying at the Hotel Morgana. It is exceptional value with a great continental breakfast and the convenience of being near (within 500m) the Termini (Station & Mero). Just beware of the gypsy pickpockets!

Visit any of the Valtur resorts foe great skiing and tuition. Pila is just above the town of Aosta and is a great resort for beginner skiers onwards. The present Valtur manager (Chef de Villagio) is not keen on English which makes communications withn the hotel somewhat difficult but they change them each year.

Valtur Sansicario is phenominal! Everything you could want in skiing and the hotel is great with a fantastic Chef du Villagio called Andrea. He and his staff go out of their way to speak your language and ensure you have an incredible time. If you wany 'Go-go' skiing ask for Mario, he's a great help, friendly and knows all the pistes.

Enjoy! We did.

Storm Ferguson

Found a great inexpensive furnished apt in Florence (Via F. Paoletti) near in centro; nice neighborhood. Three bedrooms, sleeps 4 to 5 persons; great for a family or persons studying in Florence, etc.. Two bathrooms, sitting room,nice kitchen.During the time we stayed on a sabbatical leave, we found living in Florence to be quite convenient due to its central location in Italy. Owners supplied linen, etc. Fourth floor but no elevator (good exercise). Family usually rents it from April to September; 3 months minimum rental.We found it to be very clean. Call: 011-39-55-495898 All speak English quite well. If you would like some more details, E-mail me:
rmirigia@ed.clpccd.cc.ca.us

We averaged about a meal for $80 in Rome, a bit more in Milan (about $100), and more still in Venice at about $125 per meal.

Dear Initaly Folks:

My wife, daughter, son and I just finished two weeks in Roma and Venezia. My six yr. old daughter was The Master Traveller of the Universe and everyone had a great time. The only caution that I thought my be timely and useful is on ATM machines.

Most ATM machines in Roma and Venezia work with Cirrus cards. It is safe, convenient and cheap (compared to the 4, 6 or even 9% fee one can get at cambios). The only problem I encountered was that on the weekend in Venezia the uplink to the U.S. was closed and no transactions could be accomplished. I suspect that this would have happened in Roma, also, but as it turns out, I did not try any machines over the weekend in Roma. If you are relying only on your ATM card, you could be in trouble.

Do not assume that because the particular machine you want to use does not have a Cirrus or Plus symbol on it that it will not take your card. Banca di Roma machines all take these but only about 1/3 have a Cirrus symbol on the machine. BNL, Monte di Paschi and other big banks take them. Put your card in and try. If it will not work, it will spit out the card, immediately. The uplink and spitting out of money typically takes 10-15 sec (though it seems longer the first time when you are wondering if it will work). The machines give out money in 50,000 L increments. The screen only shows up to 300,000 L (about $200), but you can get up to 500,000 L (about$330). All have an English option and are as easy to use as American machines.

Until later,
Joe Lomax
LOMAX@gold.nadn.navy.mil

Thanks for the time-consuming work you did to get those festival dates for me. I know from my own experience how hard it was to come by that kind of detail. We had a great trip, starting at Cinque Terre, which was very relaxing, but really quite touristy. The views on the walk from Monterosso to Vernazza were the most spectacular of the trip, in and out of beautiful cliffside lemon and olive gardens.

From there we went to a relaxing week at a villa just outside of Florence. The villa rental experience was great. The apartments were wonderful and very cheap compared to hotel rental. From Florence its easy to take daytrips through all of Tuscany, even down to Rome. Cooking our own food bought at the local Coop stores was also money-saving and a great, fun experience.

Rome was by far the best place to watch people, we spent one evening following Rick Steves' Floodlit Rome Hike, although we reversed it, walking from the Piazza del Popolo to Trastevere. Fun, fun night, everyone was out cruising on vespas and looking for action of all kinds, and a stop at any of the great little resaurants along the way provides dinner. Ending in Trastevere allowed us to see the nightlife in this funky part of town that feels like a disinct neighbohood. Dance to live Brazilian music at Yes Brazil.

We spent two nights in Assisi, which was quite relaxing after frantic sightseeing in Rome, and a good place to shop for gifts, with a lot of original, fairly inexpensive shops mixed in with the normal tourist traps.

Venice was a great place to walk around, start with a vaporetto cruise on line #82 or #1 along the Grand Canal. Buy a cheap bag of pigeon feed and have a party on your head with lots of warm little soft bodies crowding in to get a piece of the action. It was great to just ramble, looking in the shops and restaurants. The carnival masks, while cliche, really are spectacular pieces of art.

We stopped into Austria at this point, and I highly recommend Vienna, it has wonderful parks, not to mention the opera, the Spanish Riding school, great waltz concerts in the Stadtpark (with professional waltzers), and the Prater amusement park for the cheapest night jammed with fun and great food.

Our last stop was two nights in Varenna on Lake Como. We took the boat from Como across the Lake to get to Varenna, and then the train out of Varenna to Milan. Varenna and the lake are quite beautiful, not as spectacular and wild as the cliffs in Cinque Terre, but terraced and easygoing. Great restaurants ranging from cheap to expensive. We had a little money left at the end of our trip, so we splurged, and it was a good value, even for a splurge.

Some hard lessons: always find out the prices before you go into a restaurant or order from a selfservice place. It sounds intuitive, but the prices aren't always displayed, and when you're hungry it's tempting to leap before you look. It can be a very costly mistake. Buy water in a small plastic bottle, keep it with you and fill it at the plentiful fountains, because a simple drink costs L3000 even to L6000 or more. Take the time to learn some Italian, not from a phrasebook, but from a language textbook, you'll remember much more, and understand much better. I made a two page list of all the phrases that I thought I would _really_ need, and I knew those important phrases cold, but I had enough reference knowledge from the book to get by really well. It sounds intimidating, but for me, at least, it was a very easy language to learn the rudiments of, and a little went a long way. It's also a lot more fun to say "I learned some Italian" than "I carried a phrasebook". One more hint. Don't let your travelling companion leave his passport in the hotel your last day. It's a big downer to try to explain to the customs guy that he really should let you leave without a passport. And it doesn't work.

Thanks again for your help.

Kim Briscoe

I really enjoy checking in on your web page from time to time, especially since your efforts concern a part of the world where I spent a year of my life, and left a big piece of my heart. Going to Italy was fantastic to this boy from Texas back in 1967-68. I was fortunate enough to get sent there as my first overseas duty. When I left the states I was headed for sunny southern Italy, and much to my surprise I found myself on top of a snow capped mountain about an hour outside Reggio Calabria. It was quite a shock to this Texan at first since it was snowing the day I arrived, especially when everyone said it would get much worse. Welcome to Mt. Nardello, 6,240 feet high. Before my year was over I saw sixteen feet of snow fall, drifts reach 30 feet and cover our living quarters, and temperatures reach a wind chill of -67 degrees below zero. Despite the harsh living conditions, it was simply beautiful. I would strongly recommend anyone who goes to Calabria to rent a car and take this one hour drive to see a part of Italy you never dreamed existed. Not just the mountain, but also the quaint little villages of San Giovanni and San Alessio, and the ski resort town of Gambaria that is near the crest. You will be stepping back in time. I seriously doubt they have changed at all. It will be an excursion you will never forget. Don't end your trip at these villages though. Go on ahead another ten minutes to Gambaria for some great Spaghetti and beefsteak at the Piccolo Hotel. It sits right on the square at the base of the ski slope. Not expensive or very elaborate but great food and they will make you feel welcome.

Okay, now a bit of advise. If you go in the fall of the year and there is snow in Gambaria. DO NOT go any further up the hill. The road up to the top to the radar site where I lived is narrow and dangerous. If Gambaria has not gotten snow yet, the trip to the top will be worth your time. It's only about 10 more minutes away and I think you would be a welcome sight to the 10-20 guys who live up there. (Basically, the site is only about a five minute walk from the top of the ski slope but that's probably not a good way to get there. I say that only to give you an idea of how close you are.) Should you choose to go up, just ask anyone at the hotel. Should it happen, and this is very possible, that no one speaks English there, simply say"Basa Americana" and someone will point where to go. As you head out of Gambaria, you will see a huge house on the right side of the road. We were told it was Mussolini's summer home at one time. After you pass this house, start to watch for a road on the left side with a small sign that simply says 6-E. This road will lead you up to the installation. Just tell the guard you are American tourists. I expect he will get the highest ranking American Military person to come to the gate and you will be admitted. Just remember though, if you can see snow at the top of the Gambaria ski slope, do not attempt to go up to the site. Gambaria sits at an elevation of about 5,000 feet. That other 1,240 feet up makes a big difference. Gambaria is below the clouds, the site is ABOVE them, making the weather many times worse. Most of the time the only thing we could see, even on clear days, was Mt. Etna, the Sicily Volcano, that stuck up through the clouds too. Now, understand how it could be so beautiful? It is a breathtaking sight to look out over the miles of clouds below you and see a live volcano spewing lava and smoke. It was a sight I'll never forget and one everyone should see. See it safely though.

Before I close, I have one more piece of advice about the Reggio Calabria area. Learn a little about the language before you go and about their money. These are very patient, wonderful, people and if they see you are just making any effort at all with their language, they will be helpful and friendly. You will cross the bridge from tourist to friend very quickly.

As far as things to see in Reggio Calabria, just enjoy the whole city. You do want to do two additional things though. Go out to the beach at Scilla, (pronounced like the girls name Sheila). I'm not going to say why, so you'll just have to trust me on this one. You will know why the minute you walk onto this historical beach.

I also recommend you ride the Hydrofoil boat over to Messina, Sicily. It's also a beautiful place. Enjoy southern Italia.

Bob Boyd
BOBPROGF@aol.com

I agree with Bob Boyd, southern Italy is just lovely. If anyone's thinking of going to Naples (and they should, it's unsavoury reputation is almost completely undeserved) consider making a trip to Procida, one of the smaller islands off the coast, where they made the movie 'Il Postino'. I spent a couple of days there last year in a boutique hotel called Casa Gentile, and it was delightful, big comfortable room, right on the water, huge deck looking out on the sea, charming hosts, etc etc. Even paying with Aussie dollars it was reasonably priced, so with US dollars it'd be easy.

Christine McCourt

Here's the info you wanted about our trip and the recommendations for bed & breakfast place and some nice restaurants we found:

Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy (outside Genoa, very close to Portofino)
Roberto Gnocchi Bed & Breakfast
Phone: 011 39 0185 28 79 23
Great little place up on the top of the mountain, up from the city of Santa Margherita. The house has been in his family for over a hundred years.

We had a very nice room in the main house, with a shower, double bed, and loft above with 2 small beds (for children) and a terriffic view of the city down below. We also had a private TV and game room, just outside the entrance to our guestroom. Nice gardens with swings, and outside pizza oven just finished. There is also another small building with several guest rooms below the main house. Alberto cooks something different every night and has local wines available with dinner. The food was good and plentiful. Breakfast was only hard breads, cold cereals, juice and coffee. Cost is moderately priced, including breakfast and dinner with wine.

Like I mentioned we went down to Santa Margherita and rented a wooden keel boat for 5 hours and went all the way around the coast to the Cinque Terre. Ask for Daniella at the boat harbor (she has an office just across the road from the boat docks), it only cost about 200,000 lire for the whole day including the gas, and the boat had a fresh water shower to rinse off when we got warm. Daniella packed for us a big bag of ice for our wine and sandwiches. It was a very nice relaxing day for us and we got to see beautiful parts of the coast that you could not see from the car or roads. The sea water was crystal clear blue, but still quite chilly for swimming in early June.

Hope this information helps and I will have to find the name of the other small tratoria we ate at while in Taormina. It was kind of in the back street area, outside on a high terrace, but they had great pizza margherita, pasta with capers and black olives, wonderful Mt. Etna white wine, a nice veiw of the Taormina harbor & Giardini Nexus, Mt. Etna was in the background, and they played lots of old 50 & 60's American music at night. Everyone was singing outside while they ate. The waitress was from Austria, she spoke 5 languages, and had a great sense of humor.

Diane Vanepps

I loved Hotel Costa Azzurra. It was located in Fiascherino, a few minutes from Lerici. It had a restaurant and a bar. I hated Hotel Cristallo and Hotel Il nido, too expensive . . .

Linguist@aol.com

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