What's New In Italy
Winter Update, 2009

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Dear Friends of Italy, Italians are probably the world's greatest fans of summer, so it is with a deep sigh of regret that they leave their beloved beach or alpine valley or country cottage to head back to the city. But Italians have also always been among the favorite children of Mother Nature, and she offers up a whole host of consolation prizes for her sorrowful brood. You too can enjoy these treats: first there are the smells, of roasting chestnuts in the city and aromatic fireplaces in the small towns. Anyone who's strolled down a cobblestone lane in winter in Italy is overcome by nostalgia at the first whiff of a burning log. It lifts your spirits and whets your appetite for the delictible tastes of autumn! Think of pasta with wild mushrooms, risotto adorned with flakes of pungent truffle, hearty soups made with root vegetables and beans or lentils, artichokes cooked in as many ways as there are days in the year, pumpkin ravioli laced with candied fall fruits, succulent stews -- and in many parts of the country the favorite dessert is chestnut cake. A strange taste for those not raised on it, but you should give it a try because it is always fresh and homemade.

Then there are the sights of winter! Italy doesn't really have any maple or oak forests to rival those in New England, but it does have acres and acres of olive trees, heavy with the fruit that is harvested between October and December. In many regions you'll see bright orange nets strung from trunk to trunk about a foot off the ground: this is to keep any fallen fruit from bruising, because the minute an olive is injured its acid count begins to soar, and a high acid count is the death of any olive oil. As you drive along on your daily itineraries, look for small trucks loaded down with olives. Follow one of them to the mill and ask if you can watch the process. Nowadays, even if it's not a historic mill, you can bet they'll be using ancient methods to press that oil because it's the only kind of oil they produce in Italy (and it costs a lot more than Saudi crude!). Italy's harvesting year ends with an abundant citrus crop and last but not least, my favorite the persimmon. Sweet, gooey and delicious, this bright orange fruit matures in winter after the tree drops its leaves. They rarely grow wild in Italy so you'll see them in people's backyards, where each bare branch sports a dozen of the brightly-colored balls, looking for all the world like Mother Nature's Christmas trees. The fruits endure even after it freezes, and I promise you few sights are more enchanting than a persimmon tree decked with bright orange fruit and real white snow!

You will find food festivals (called sagre) all over Italy in the winter months. Look for brightly colored banners hung above the streets in small towns, ask your hosts, ask anyone who will listen. The annual gatherings celebrate the harvest of funghi (mushrooms), castagne (chestnuts), uva (grapes), carciofi (artichokes), nocciole (hazelnuts), and of course, the smelliest of them all, il tartuffo (truffles). Click here for more information.

FINALLY, A HIGH-SPEED TRAIN BETWEEN ROME AND MILAN!

It is now possible to travel between Rome and Milan in 3.5 hours. Second-class tickets cost 71 Euro/person; first-class costs 98 Euro/person. Right after the new line was inaugurated, two journalists "raced" each other from the center of Rome to the center of Milan, one by plane and one on the new train. Door-to-door, the plane trip was quicker by one hour but cost 200 Euros more. Add to that the relative ease of getting to the train station and we'd say the train wins, hands down. Other high-speed (TAV) routes include Rome-Venice, Rome-Bari, Rome-Lamezia, Rome-Genoa, Milan-Naples, Milan-Bologna and Milan-Florence. For details and to purchase tickets, click here.

THE PRETTIEST TOWNS IN ITALY If your Italian travels will be taking you to the Marches, why not stray a little off the beaten path to Corinaldo, a pristine ancient town surrounded by 1 km of intact walls dating all the way back to 1367. Time and again these walls were besieged over the centuries, but they always withstood the attacks, and that may be why the village has such a medieval feel even now. Climb the ancient stone steps that lead up to the ramparts, where you'll be rewarded with sweeping views across the valleys to the distant foothills of the Apennines. Visit the shrine to St. Maria Goretti, a local girl who was canonized in 1950. Then stop in at an enoteca to sample some of the delicious verdicchio wine harvested in this region.

VIRTUAL VISIT OF ANCIENT ROME And how about this: now you can take a virtual visit of ancient Rome! Next time you're at the Coliseum, wander down the street to the 3-D Rewind Theatre, where you can don 3-D glasses and watch a 30-minute program bring to life some 60,000 virtual senators, plebians, gladiators, vestal virgins and other imperial Roman denizens. The show opens at a construction site in modern Rome where a frescoed tunnel that led to the gladiators' living quarters was recently discovered. Gradually you become an audience member at a gladiatorial meet, and you even get to signal your thumbs-up or thumbs-down opinion of the action. The experience is similar to a video game, but its value lies in showing you what the Forum and Coliseum were actually like. See the show before you visit the ruins: it will all make much more sense if you do! The theatre is located at Via Capo D'Africa 5 and is open daily 9am-7pm.

VENICE 'S FOURTH BRIDGE

It is a wonderful clue to the true Venetian character. Just think about it: i veneziani live in a city built entirely on water, a complex warren of countless islands, many no larger than an apartment complex. This settlement is cleft into a right bank and a left bank, separated by the broad and very winding Canal Grande. Over the centuries, the residents have built hundreds of adorable (but oh, so cumbersome!) bridges to connect their tiny islands, but only three bridges spanned the mighty Grand Canal. Actually one of them, the Ponte dell'Accademia, is still officially considered a temporary bridge, which is why it is made of wood. Apparently the locals just never thought it was important enough to finish the construction. After all, they could always hop into one of the little gondolas called traghetti -- the ones that cost 1 euro and take you straight across the canal so quickly that a true Venetian doesn't even bother to sit down. So why all the fuss about having a fourth bridge? When Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava was commissioned to design it, no one paid much attention. Nor was there much fanfare when the Ponte della Costituzione opened last fall. But we think it's a pretty special event, and we urge you to try it out next time you're in town. One thing is for sure: this bridge will never be affected by the infamous high waters, even such as those this month that were among the highest in history! Click here for more details.

CITY CARDS

One way to make the best use of your travel time and euros is the City Card. These are available in several Italian cities and generally include public transportation as well as entrance to museums and historical sites. Ask your hotel concierge or host about them as soon as you arrive. Here are a few:

Roma Archeologia Card. Includes entrance to nine major sites in Rome, including the Coliseum. It costs 20 euros and is valid for seven days and can be purchased at the Tourism kiosks as well as at the sites themselves.

Appia Antica Card. Costing only 6 euros, this card offers a sizeable discount if you're planning to visit the Baths of Caracalla and Tomb of Cecilia Metella and Villa of the Quintilli.

Torino Card. Available for 2 or 3 days, it includes all urban public transportation except the subway, plus rides on the elevator at Mole Antonelliana and reductions on many shows as well as bicycle rental.

Milan Welcome Card . Sold at the Tourist Information Offices, Via Marconi 1, it allows entry to the city's main attractions.

Venice Card. Venice offers a host of different cards, valid for one, three or seven days and including all sorts of things. The most comprehensive include unlimited use of public transportation (more expensive in Venice than anywhere on earth!), admission to all the civic museums and 16 churches, and two daily entrances to the public toilets. Select your plan and buy your card in advance by clicking here.

Genoa Museum Card. Few people realize how many museums there are in Genoa, ranging from small family homes to world-class collections. Visit 22 of them for free, plus get discounts at the acquarium and several villas and parks, for 16 euros.

Napoli Artecard. Skip the lines and pay nothing to enter Naples' most important museums. The 13-euro fee for the card also covers public transportation.

Italy's World Heritage Sites Did you know that Italy has more World Heritage Sites than any other country on earth? These places represent our legacy from the past, what we live with today, and what we pass on to future generations. Our cultural and natural heritage are both irreplaceable sources of life and inspiration. Places as unique and diverse as the wilds of East Africa’s Serengeti, the Pyramids of Egypt, the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and the Baroque cathedrals of Latin America make up our world’s heritage. Click here to learn about Italy's many illustrious and little-known sites, so that you can include some of them on your trip.

Sirmione One of Italy's most gorgeous panoramas can be enjoyed on Lake Garda, which is surrounded by vineyards, quaint villages and snow-capped Alps. At the very southern tip is a narrow peninsula guarded by a fairy-tale castle that seems to be submerged in the royal-blue waters of the lake. The village safely tucked behind the fortress is utterly charming, and the lakeside promenade takes you past colorful flowers and world-class olive trees. Click here for our Photo Album of Sirmione.

Sacro Monte of Lake Orta B ack in the 1500s, there was a brief and rather interesting vogue in northern Italy, which entailed finding a secluded, preferably picturesque, rural location and erecting several small chapels containing frescoes and life-sized statues depicting scenes from the Bible. Sort of like the rich merchants of San Gimignano who tried to ensure their status in town by building taller and taller and more and more towers, wealthy northerners paid for these sanctuaries to secure their places in Heaven. Today they are peaceful havens where you can immerse yourself in nature and art, then enjoy a picnic in the woods. At Lake Orta's Sacro Monte, you can also learn all about the life of St. Francis. Click here for a virtual tour.

Five-Day Independent Tour of Chianti Classico The Chianti is one of the loveliest little patches of this earth, and what better way to get to know it than by staying right at its heart and roaming among its enchanting villages, vineyards and castles on your own (with the help of detailed route maps, of course!)? This 4-night program includes all the Chianti experiences including tastings of wine, cheese and meats. Costs are kept way down -- and your individual freedom way up -- by using your own car. Only 495 Euro/person including lodgings, one dinner, and visits to wineries. Click here for details.

Five-Day Independent Tour of Southern Tuscany Treat yourselves to this 4-night independent full-immersion into la vita toscana. Travel at your own pace while discovering great art, perfectly manicured landscapes, abundant vineyards, comfortable stone houses with big fireplaces, foods that are as delicious as they are simple, and great wines to accompany all of the above. We have included just the right amount of exclusive activities you could never do on your own, so that you can experience all the things that make Tuscany one of the most magical places on earth. Only 505 Euro/person including lodgings, two dinners, and visits to wineries and a cheese farm. Click here for details.

Private Transfers Throughout Italy After a long plane ride (or before a long plane ride!) it may make a lot of sense to leave the driving to someone else. All transfers are for your private group, door-to-door in late-model vehicles with courteous, experienced drivers. Wherever possible all drivers speak English. If they don't we will inform you before confirming your transfer. Click here for prices.

This month we have several new hand-picked unique lodgings to present to you. Did you know that at In Italy Online we personally inspect each property, and welcome to our site only those where we ourselves would happily spend a few days? Start your search for lodgings on our Special Offers page. Only for readers of In Italy Online, many of the hotels and villas we represent are offering special low rates for 2009 bookings. Be sure to check this page first:

When searching for places to stay in Italy, be sure to use our brand-new Amenity Search Feature. Not sure where you want to stay but it better have air conditioning? Or a swimming pool? Or Internet access? Then simply click the map for the region of your choice (say, Tuscany or Veneto or Sicily) and select all the amenities you desire. Our very handy engine will find the properties that offer what you want, and present you with a picture and a brief summary of each one. Click on the property name to see a detailed description, photo album, map, guest reviews, complete amenity chart and price details. Here is the selection of newcomers we are proud to welcome to our site this month:

In Rome

Roman Hideaway
Totally restored and renovated apartment for 2+2 on a quiet street in Old Rome, between Campo de' Fiori and the Ghetto; heating; high-speed Internet; washing machine; dishwasher; telephone. From 203. EURO/night; from 1234. EURO/week

In Tuscany

The Inn at Bagno Vignoni
Atmospheric ancient inn in the historic center of a totally unique hamlet whose main square is a thermal pool; a/c; massage and spa treatment available. From 80. EURO/night

In Sicily

Palermo Elegante
Our favorite Palermo digs. Located in a quiet residential neighborhood close to shops, restaurants and a 15-minute walk from the old center. All amenities, free garage parking, fine restaurant. From 137.50 EURO/night

On the Riviera

Hotel Grande Albergo
Old World resort hotel in the center of a lively town facing the beach. Elevator, air conditioning, swimming pool, beach, all amenities, restaurant. From 100.00 EURO/night

To save you loads of time when you're browsing through our hundreds of lodgings, we have created a summary page for each and every one of them. At a glance, you'll be able to see the general character, location (including a map), size, features, price range, minimum stay requirements, advantages, disadvantages and whether a car is required. Then, if it looks like this might be a place for you, we offer a photo album, more detailed description, details about pricing and conditions, and reviews from former guests. If you'd like us to make suggestions about where to stay , visit Our Favorite Properties. Or use the clickable map of Italy to view an index of all the lodgings in each region, including farm apartments, villas, historic residences, hotels and city apartments. Or, if you know the kind of atmosphere you're after (romantic, authentic, culinary, seaside, etc.), try our specialized itinerary maps, offering the same style of lodgings throughout the country. If you already know what property you're looking for but can't find its page, the easiest solution is to try our Index of Unique Lodgings. Remember that our prices always include everything - there are no hidden surprises you find out later.

• Italian Gift Shop

Not sure what to give your family and friends for the holidays? Be sure to visit our online bottega italiana for a vast range of gifts from your favorite country. We offer books, movies, gift baskets, calendars, posters, foods, wall displays and many more items guaranteed to thrill any Italophile on your list. Click here to start shopping!

We are also proud to offer some wonderful short programs for independent travelers. Combining self-guided itineraries, excellent lodgings, some meals and transfers, they are perfect for those who like to travel on their own but leave the planning to the experts. In Tuscany and on the Amalfi Coast, we offer:

• Self-Guided Tour of the Amalfi Coast

This just might be one of the most popular activities we have ever offered – if you read the Guest Reviews you’ll see why! Spend four days at a 4-star seaside resort hotel outside Ravello or Praiano and leave the driving to your hosts. They’ll pick you up at the airport or station and whisk you out to the coast, then take you to see Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, Capri, and Pompeii. You’ll tour on your own, at your own pace, but you won’t have to deal with crowded public transportation or – even worse! – with driving yourself on the Amalfi Coast! Prices start at 1115. Euro/person, including four nights accommodations and dinners, plus all excursions and transfers.

• Authentic Southern Tuscany

Enjoy seven days in the most authentic part of Italy's favorite region. You'll visit the quaint villages of Montepulciano, Siena, Pienza and Montalcino, see how wine is made in a historic Brunello winery, visit an ancient olive oil mill, delight to countless tastings of the local food and wine, and learn how to make your own Tuscan menus at four hands-on cooking lessons. Groups never exceed 12 people, and In Italy Online's exclusive low price for this unforgettable experience, including all food and unlimited wines, is only US$2400.-2650./person. Sign up now for the trip of a lifetime!

• Pictures of Italy

Whether you're trying to decide what part of the country to visit, or just hankering to relive the memories of your latest trip, pictures are the quickest way to get there. We have assembled a gallery with hundreds of colorful shots ranging from the Alps to the southern tip of Europe and featuring people, food, architecture, art, even the animals you'll encounter at the national parks! Be sure to bookmark the page so you can return often and visit the newest additions to the gallery.