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[Regions of Italy] 
[Back to Piedmont]
The Spaniards, Saracens, Goths and others coveting the fertile Barolo wine lands never succeeded in entering Serralunga castle. These days you'll be welcomed and you'll get an unexpected treat.
Your guide, a signora with a macabre sense of humor and a deep knowledge of this massive fortress, will fascinate you with wicked quips on the unique architectural features that made it impregnable.
My question for our cooking tour group was "Find the toilet and tell us why it's one of a kind." (No, the answer isn't at the bottom: you'll have to go and find out for yourself!).
Built in the 1200's by the Falletti family for defence, the castle crowns the hilltop town of Serralunga. Its 1.8-metre thick walls and specially designed stairs, towers, floors and windows all impeded access. For example, the tower is divided by floors without staircases. The signora points out the drawbridge and platform where residents stood to throw boiling oil on enemies. In the kitchen, at the two huge fireplaces where pots and utensils still hang, she says the big mallet was used to cure headaches; one hit on the head did it. Off to one side of the vast banquet room is a small frescoed corner for praying. She remarks that then, as now, people liked eating more than praying. The eighteen window covers on the top floor open slightly so that defenders could shoot enemies without being seen. I suggest you open the windows wide for a spectacular 360-degree panorama.
Driving around the Barolo wine country, sampling truffle-topped dishes at one restaurant after another, it's easy to forget other sights, but whatever you do, don't miss out on Serralunga castle.
by Margaret Cowan
Serralunga castle is located on Via del Castello, 12050 Serralunga d'Alba, tel. 011-39-173-613358.
[Regions of Italy] [Back to Piedmont]