Unforgettable Food & Wine in Piedmont

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Home of the white truffle, some exquisite cheeses and most of Italy's great red wines, this region is dotted with all manner of good eating establishments, from the tiniest "Granny's kitchen" to the most renowned (and expensive). Here are a few of the latter, in case you want to splurge just once.

Dei Cacciatori da Cesare (Via San Bernardo 9, Albaretto Torre 12060; tel. 011-39-173-520141). Truffles are the basis for the culinary magic of chef Cesare Giaccone, who uses basic ingredients to create anything but traditional dishes. Stradette consists of strips of cornmeal pasta dressed with a sauce of leeks, roast kid and stewed goose. Closed Tuesday, Wednesday, January and August. Call ahead for directions, because there is no sign on the door!
Vecchia Lanterna (Corso Re Umberto 21, Turin; tel. 011-39-11-390657). A wonderful turn-of-the-century atmosphere and extremely rich, savory fare. Closed Sunday, Saturday lunch, August 10-20.
Gener Neuv (Lungo Tanaro 4, 14100 Asti; tel. 011-39-141-57270). A completely different type of ambience is established in this cozy, family-run restaurant in the medieval town of Asti. Try the finanziere, an elaborate stew of meats, sweetbreads and truffles, named after the 19th-century businessmen who loved it. Closed Sunday evening, Monday, January or December and August.
Or for a more economical experience:
Ristorante Cannon d'Oro (Piazza Cavour 21, Cocconato d'Asti; tel. 011-39-0141-907-794). Occupying a panoramic position atop one of Monferrato's highest hills, this Liberty-style restaurant has been serving their own unique versions of the local specialties for over 100 years. The town is located halfway between Torino and Asti, and 50 km from Alba. Come in the afternoon to visit the Romanesque abbey, castle and typical residences, stop in at a couple of wineries for a tasting and some shopping, then head on up to Cannon d'Oro to watch the sun set behind the hills as you sip an apertivo on the terrace. For dinner, try a wild mushroom salad followed by ravioli with brie and walnuts, a selection of typical Piedmontese boiled meats, and an assortment of wild fruits. Moderately expensive; a/c; credit cards accepted.
L'Ostu dij Baloss in Saluzzo is highly recommended by many books, but when we ate there and did not order a meat course, because we are vegetarians, we were told our order of pasta, a cheese plate, a salad and a bottle of fine wine "was not worth keeping the kitchen open for." We value friendly service as much as haute cuisine meals, so we felt you should be warned. Piedmont has so many gourmet restaurants, you should never have to put up with snooty restauranteurs.

There are loads of vineyards you can visit in Piedmont. One interesting one is in a 15th-century abbey in the hills outside of Alba. Contact Antiche Cantine dell'Annunziata, Abbazia dell'Annunziata, La Morra 12064 Cuneo (tel. 011-39-173-50185).

[Regions of Italy] [Back to Piedmont]