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[Regions of Italy] 
[Back to Sicily]
The food of Sicily is truly the cuisine of the sun and the sea. The vast blue sky and slightly darker Mediterranean waters dominate any visitor's memories of the island and determine today, as for centuries, the brilliance of the cuisine.
Fish and seafood are found in many dishes, from appetizers to pastas to main courses. The variety is endless. There are involtini di pesce spada, rolled filets of swordfish with any of a number of fillings or sauces. There is an endless array of tuna preparations, using either canned or fresh fish. It should be noted that "canned tuna" in Sicily means glass jars with large filets of tuna in extra virgin olive oil. You can even choose the cut of tuna you prefer, just like in the best sushi bars. For the adventuresome, there is spaghetti ai ricci, pasta with raw sea urchins and garlic.
Other ingredients reflect the influence of the climate. Citrus abounds and is used in many dishes. There are brilliant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, intensely flavored olive oils, a wide assortment of herbs and spices and a great abundance of wheat for pastas and bread. These ingredients are combined with unexpected lightness, not at all like their cousins encountered in America's old-style Italian restaurants.
Following are my adaptations of two traditional Sicilian dishes, spaghetti with eggplant and bruschetta with tuna. I have simplified the dishes and adapted them to American kitchens and produce. Buon appetito!
Bruschetta al tonno
Grilled Bread with Tuna
Ingredients
1 can imported tuna in olive oil, drained and flaked
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 Tbs. fresh chopped parsley
1 Tbs. fresh chopped mint
1 Tbs. capers, drained
2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
salt
pepper
whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 baguette-type loaf of bread, sliced into 1/2 in. rounds
Preparation
Combine first 7 ingredients in a bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste. If mixture is too dry, add additional olive oil. Toast or grill bread rounds, then rub with garlic. Top with tuna mixture and serve.
This recipe can be varied according to the number of people you wish to serve. Small breads rounds can be passed as an appetizer. As an alternative, grill large slices of country or rustic bread and serve at the table.
Spaghetti alla norma
Spaghetti with Eggplant
Ingredients
2 large eggplants, sliced into 1/2 in. rounds
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes (preferably imported)
or
2 cups fresh tomatoes, peeled and seeded
3 Tbs. tomato paste
1 Tbs. sun-dried tomato paste
2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
16 basil leaves, chopped
1 lb. imported spaghetti
1/2 lb. ricotta salata, crumbled (not fresh ricotta)
olive oil
salt
pepper
additional basil leaves to garnish
Preparation
Brush grill or ridged grill pan with olive oil. Salt and pepper eggplant slices on both sides. Heat grill or pan until just smoking. Add eggplant slices and cook until tender. Eggplant may be cooked in batches and held in 200 degree oven until time to serve (up to 1 hour). For tomato sauce, take a heavy saucepan and cover bottom with olive oil. Place over moderate heat and add garlic. Saute until golden then add red pepper flakes. Then add tomatoes, both kinds of tomato paste and parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 12-15 minutes. Turn off heat and add chopped basil. Use immediately or let stand for up to 1 hour (or make the day before and refrigerate).
To serve, prepare pasta according to package directions. Reheat tomato sauce to simmer. Drain pasta when done. Toss pasta, tomato sauce and ricotta salata in a large bowl then distribute to individual serving dishes. Top pasta with eggplant slices and garnish with basil leaves. Serves 4-6 as a main course and 6-8 as a pasta or appetizer course.
Historical Note: There is a controversy over the name spaghetti alla norma. The dish is said by some to come from the town of Catania, home of Vincenzo Bellini, composer of the opera Norma. The dish is thus considered a tribute to the composer. Others believe the dish is far older and was in general consumption on the whole island. Their view is that spaghetti alla norma means normal spaghetti, as in what we eat normally, every day. I could handle eating this every day!
Sims Brannon, Los Angeles
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