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Our friend Eleonora has a few suggestions for great dining. Some are quite well known; others are local secrets. You're sure to enjoy yourselves at any of them.

• Trattoria Pallottino (Via Isole delle Stinche 1/r, tel.055-289-573; closed Monday). Near Santa Croce. This traditional wineshop has a friendly atmosphere, with wooden tables and straw placemats. Typical Florentine cuisine, including large portions of pasta, or assortments (assaggi) of cheese and salami. This is a popular place, so phone ahead and avoid rush hours, especially 1-2pm. About 25 Euro/person, if you drink the house wine, which is quite good.

• Enoteca Bar "Fuori Porta" (Via del Monte alle Croci 10/r, tel. 055-234-2483; closed Sunday. Open 9:30am-1am; no credit cards). Below Piazzale Michelangelo. Traditional Florentine snack bar, with crostini, assorted cheeses and salamis and preserved vegetables. A large selection of Italian wines by the glass or bottle. Very popular with the local theatre and art crowd, who especially like the outdoor seating in summer. About 10 Euro for wine and a snack.

• Cibreino (Piazza Ghiberti 35, tel. 055-234-1100; closed Sunday and Monday). Near Santa Croce. Next door to the famed (and costly) Cibreo, this lively trattoria features large tables shared by all, and most of the same dishes as the Cibreo (at lower prices). There is always a line outside this extremely popular eatery, so it's worthwhile to come at 7 and be the first. They serve a few pasta dishes, but they are famed for their delicious soups and casseroles (sformati) for the first course, and local specialties such as stuffed rabbit, veal and ricotta meatballs or stewed calamari for seconds. Save room for the chocolate cake. About 30 Euro/person without wine.

• Vineria alle Murate (Via Ghibellina 52/r, tel. 055-240-618; closed Monday). Like the Cibreino, this elegant little candlelit restaurant is the less expensive sister of Alle Murate, next door. Very popular with the after-theatre crowd. You'll love the wine cellar, visible through the glass floor. Phone ahead. 25 Euro/person without wine.

• Al Lume di Candela (Via delle Terme 23/r, tel. 055-294-566; closed Monday lunch and Sunday). Near Via Tornabuoni. More expensive than the other restaurants on this list, this is a first-class splurge. Extremely elegant settings, unforgettable food and impeccable service justify 50 Euro/person.

• Ristorante-Pizzeria Edi House (Piazza Savonarola 6-10/r, tel. 055-588-886). Near Via Masaccio. This two-year old establishment is far more modern and stylish than most Florentine "pizzerie." Great salads, pastas and pizza. 15-20 Euro/person for pizza, pasta and wine.

• Il Latini (Via dei Panchetti 6, tel. 055-210-916; closed Monday). Near the Duomo. Friendly atmosphere, rustic settings and, at lunch, a noisy local crowd. Great fried vegetables and antipastos. No reservations, so get there early. 25 Euro/person, with house wine.

Here are some more recommendations by reader Janet G.:

• Pane e Vino (Via San Niccolo 70r, phone 2476956)
  A small informal restaurant with an interesting menu that changes often. This may have been the best meal I had in Florence, especially a dish of lamb with eggplant puree. Since this used to be an enoteca, the wine list is also good. Friendly service. Price around 26 Euro per person.

• Osteria del Bricco (Via San Niccolo 8r, Phone 2345037)
  A small family-run place serving typical Tuscan food, with some non-traditional twists such as serving the crostini toppings separately in small bowls. Not necessarily worth a detour, but a good place to know about if you're in the area. Price around 21 Euro per person.

• Enoteca Fuori Porta (Via Monte alle Croci 10r, phone 2324483, www.fuoriporta.it)
  This wine bar is not exactly a secret, since it's already mentioned on the In Italy site and in most of the guide books, but I'd like to add my recommendation. This was the only place we went back to a second time during our 8 day stay in Florence. A very interesting list of wines by the glass in all price ranges, and a book-length list of wines by the bottle. We went for the wines by the glass on both our visits and had a mini wine tasting. The food specialty here is "crostoni" - large hunks of Tuscan bread topped with almost anything you can think of, plus melted cheese. (There are several pages of combinations to choose from.) The dishes we tried from the short list of daily specials were good, too - smoked swordfish carpaccio and fettucine with rabbit sauce being two standouts. Note that this enoteca is very popular with locals and tourists alike, and fills up rapidly after about 8:30 pm.

I've got another place for eating in Florence, a small but really good cafe in Via Ghibellina (76/r) called Darvish Cafe, they say it's an oriental cafe and they do have oriental food but there is still pizza, falaffle etc. on offer. It is an all round good experience, the main thing is though is that it is dead cheap. It's open everyday from 10am to 3pm. And if you do go there don't be put off by the people inside, they are very friendly and will help you. It is suitable for all ages we went in with a group ranging from 7 - to over 50 and had a thoroughly good meal, it wasn't very busy and it was lunchtime and the place alone is very interesting. the telephone number is 338/1323896. I recommend it personally. Thanks for your time.

Mike Burke

No restaurant list for florence can be considered complete without including ZIBBIBO, the most consistently wonderful food we've experienced in florence over the years. it was started about 7 years ago by Benedetta Vitale who, along with her then husband, had started Cibreo. Benedetta's loving hand and guidance in that kitchen are now what guests experience at Zibibbo in a warm setting. Benedetta's goal is to suit each guest's personal preferences so that his dining experience is, indeed, his/her own. the menu is extensive and wine pairings are wonderful. The desserts are THE best! and Benedetta and her staff are sublime hosts. superlatives only . . .

The number 14C bus from the Duomo whisks you to Via di Terzollina, 3R in 12 minutes when finding a taxi either isn't possible or doesn't suit you. it is the bus' last stop and the restaurant is 3 paces beyond ...

Enjoy!
phyllis leventhal

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