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We begin with a way to really get out into the country,
as far from civilization as one can be while still being literally surrounded
by a civilization that goes back two thousand years. Did you know that the area
between the delightful hill towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana is cross-crossed
with at least 50 ancient roads that were carved into the rocks before the time
of Christ? So well were they crafted that they have survived almost intact, hidden
beneath the leafy canopies of certain forests accessible from the side of the
road. You might see a small hand-lettered sign (look for the words via cava):
follow it and you will soon come to the entrance to what can only be described
as a cleft in the earth’s surface. Suddenly the ground drops off and you
find yourself standing before two smooth rock walls that can be up to 30 feet
tall and as little as one yard across. Whereas one moment ago you had been YOU,
strolling through a lovely green wood, you have now shrunken to the size of a
mouse, gazing up in wonder at this magical passageway that seems to have been
built by giants. Step into the fantasy world and walk to the end, which will
probably be a few hundred feet away. Had you been an Etruscan, the soaring rock
walls would have protected you from the prying eyes of your enemies. To make
things easier for yourself, you cut steps into those walls at certain intervals
so that you could emerge before reaching the end. And while you were at it, you
carved spouts so that rainwater could collect and be put to use elsewhere. If
you visit this charming part of Tuscany, which is still off the beaten path (but
not for long!), any of the residents can tell you where to find a via cava.
Pack a lunch and treat yourselves to a picnic while you're out there in the Tuscan
woods! For places to stay in the area, click
here.