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[Regions of Italy] 
[Back to Umbria]Italy is filled with surprises; all you have to do is turn off any beaten path and, I promise you, you'll find adventure.
For example, years ago, my German friend Ira and I spent the day exploring the wonderful Umbrian town of Orvieto, then sat at an outside table in the main piazza admiring the splendid cathedral for which Orvieto is famous, and raised a glass or two of their inimitable white wine with some locals. At sundown, we headed for Rome.
I was used to Ira's unbounded curiosity about all things Italian, so I didn't even comment when, after a few minutes, she looked to her left and said, "Hmmm...I wonder where that road goes?" I knew we were about to find out.
She swung her Volkswagen bug onto a narrow country road and after some moments we passed a small sign that said, "Monastery." We turned into the entrance and found ourselves on a long, dark, mysterious-looking path, so thickly lined with trees that their limbs joined overhead, forming a natural vaulted ceiling.
After the car was brought to a halt, we got out and stood in the utter silence and darkness, staring with delight and wonder at the huge old villa silhouetted against the black sky.
"Buona sera," a low, musical voice said.
We almost jumped out of our skins. How in the world had he avoided making a sound on those crunchy pebbles?
Feeling like the trespassers we were, and females at that, we started to explain to the tall slim monk.... But it was unnecessary. Before we had time to wonder if women were allowed, this warm, kind, generous Italian led us inside the monastery and gave us the grand tour. The walls were filled with splendid old paintings and maps and artifacts. Word must have spread, because an inordinate number of monks, clerics and seminary students suddenly found it necessary to speak with our guide as he led us from room to room. Each smiled shyly and shook hands with us.
Our guide then asked us to stay for dinner!
The dining room was row upon row of long wooden tables and benches. As we took our places amongst a sea of males, I leaned in to Ira and whispered grimly that it was too bad such a wonderful day was going to end with bread and water. She laughed and murmured, "We'll stop for a bite later, outside Rome."
Then, to our amazement, out came a veritable feast! Huge bowls of an absolutely delicious pasta, followed by salad and beans and chicken, and freshly baked peasant bread, veggies, fruit...and wine, wine, wine. All these from the monastery gardens and ovens and vineyards.
Before we left, I begged them to explain why the pasta tasted so scrumptiously different, and was told that the tomato sauce was made exactly like an ordinary one except that Umbrians often replace basil and/or oregano with bay leaves and add to it, of all things, a couple of pinches of cinnamon!
You see? Surprises, always surprises.
Rosemary Torigian
[Regions of Italy] [Back to Umbria]