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This article is probably going to get me into a lot of trouble with the fine citizens
of Aosta, so before I even begin let me just say this: I staunchly believe a visit to Aosta is well worth
your time!
So
why, you wonder, would any Aostian have it out for me? Well, perhaps because I just can't help pointing out
that there are a few elephants in its closet. For one thing, the whole place is the COLOR of an elephant!
Gray, gray, gray! Gray skies, gray buildings, gray streets, gray people! To be fair, the weather is no one's
fault, and when the sun comes out this is as pretty as any Roman town could be -- and what fault is it of
the present residents if theirs is one of the most authentically Roman towns in the world? Actually, Aosta
is perhaps the best existing example of a Roman outpost, built by legions as fast and cheaply as they could. What material did they have when they were doing that lo these 2000 years ago? Why, they had endless heaps of gray river rocks, hurled down from the mountaintops by dozens of crashing snowmelt streams. They made for quite a dramatic (if leaden) town.
As for the residents' gray attitude, we will get to that in a moment.
Capital
of the autonomous region of Val D'Aosta, the city is nestled at the feet of the French Alps, which are a bunch
of other very picturesque (though sometimes GRAY!) peaks. It was created in 25 BC by Caesar Augustus, who
needed a military outpost to keep barbarian hordes from sweeping over the alpine passes and overruning the
Empire. It turns out there were two things the Roman legions did REALLY well: fight enemies and build impressive
fortifications. It is said that the emperors kept their men busy on construction projects so they wouldn't
get bored between battles. The garrison of Aosta must have been pretty frightful, because they apparently
had plenty of time to build an entire city, which was laid out on a perfectly square grid, something the Romans
were particularly fond of. Nowadays, you enter the old town through the monumental gate they built to commemorate
their leader Augustus. Yep, still standing today -- and yep, it's gray.
Other Roman structures you can visit are the amphitheatre; a well-preserved theatre that is considered
a masterpiece of late Roman provincial architecture; almost every inch of the original city wall plus the
four towers that stood at its corners; a double-arched courtyard called the Praetorian Gate; and the remains
of a cemetery, baths, apartments and more. These ruins are nothing like what you'd find in Pompeii, which
was the sybaritic weekend getaway of the rich and famous. Aosta was a no-nonsense military base (its original
name of Augusta Praetoria says it all). It was so far from Rome its inhabitants must have felt they were not
even on the same planet. No magnificent frescoes here (although I bet there were some brothels!).
Many
centuries and conquering rulers later, Charlemagne made Aosta a major stop on La Via Francigena, the pilgrim
route that led from northern Europe to the Vatican. It was 
customary to offer hospitality to the unending
stream of Crusaders and humble peasants who braved the Alps on their devotional treks, but we can imagine
that most of them were a motley sight by the time they got here, and they might have struck the locals as
being more needy than devout. Try standing on the perfectly preserved Roman bridge, still paved with the original
river rocks, and imagine yourself to be an 11th-century provincial watching a parade of Crusaders march past
on their way to someplace called "The Holy Land." First came pages carrying
silk banners and shouting the titles of their lords, immensely wealthy aristocrats who had sponsored the event;
next came a platoon of chevaliers, which literally means "knights on horseback" -- and what
a racket their body armor and weapons must have made, combined with the clatter of hooves on the rocks, as
if to announce the stupendous arrival of the next contingent, which would have been the lords themselves,
wearing sumptuous velvets and embroideries and even more impressive armor. So extravagant were they that onlookers
barely dared to meet their gaze. Trudging along behind were countless foot soldiers: serfs or otherwise lowly
men who could not escape being drafted into this mission from which they most likely would never return. Buzzing
around the whole procession, like a cloud of noisy horseflies, were cooks and tradesmen and courtesans and
a host of star-struck yokels and crackpots picked up along the way. If today you happen to notice that despite
the wealth of Roman structures in this town, there are few ancient artifacts of note, consider that many experts
theorize they were looted by all the travelers who made this town the crossroads of Europe throughout the
Middle Ages. Standing today on Aosta's little Roman bridge, surrounded by slate-roofed homes that look much
as their 11th-century counterparts would have, you'll have little trouble imagining the chaos that must have
accompanied each onslaught of visitors -- and then maybe you'll realize why the modern city is plastered with
signs that say "Silence!"
Which
brings me back to the "gray" attitude of the Aostians. I have to say, this is the Capital
of No! Never have I seen so many signs saying, "Forbidden!" "Stay Off!" "Silence!" "Do
Not [do any of an astonishing list of activities one might be tempted to perform]!" Everywhere you go
there are guards with whistles, guards enthusiastically shushing and re-directing us unruly strangers. But
if you think about it, the foundations of Aosta were made of military discipline and cemented by foreign invasions.
So have pity on the descendants of such a history, and focus your attention on enjoying the many sites the
city has to offer. Once you have exhausted the many Roman sites, the most impressive destination is the 11th-century
cathedral. It possesses an unusual cryptoportico (double façade), the inner portion of which
bears a delightful painted plaster sculpture of the Last Supper.
These would be exquisite anywhere, but here in gray Aosta, their vibrant colors are spectacular.
Also almost too vibrant to believe (but authentic) are the
15th- and 16th-century stained glass windows. There is a wonderful mosaic floor, a masterful set of carved
choir stalls, a 14th-century crucifix, and the Museum, which houses true Gothic masterpieces that were removed
from this and other regional churches and placed here for safekeeping. They include numerous 13th- and 14th-century
wood statutes, 15th-century wooden sculptures and triptychs, a bas relief of Christ's life, a wondrous silver
arm of St. Gras with jewels, a gold and silver bejewelled reliquary bust of St. Giocondo, and portraits of
Crusaders galore!
The town's other treasure is the 11th-century Church of St. Orso. Dedicated to the
patron saint of Aosta, a 6th-century archdeacon of Irish origins, the church is a Romanesque jewel which still
harbors many of the frescoes that once entirely covered its walls. To one side is a lovely little cloister
with some astonishing stone carvings. Its beauty is only slightly marred by the many signs starting with the
words "Do not….".
But no, no, here is our own admonishment: do NOT let these signs discourage you! Wander
to your heart's content, enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and the gorgeous alpine backdrop, stop to try the local
specialty, a cheese crepe, and imagine yourself to be one of those pilgrims on La Via Francigena. If you have
a day or two extra in the area, visit the castles or take
a hike in the mountains. If you
are one of those who likes to get way off the beaten track, Val D'Aosta is the place for you so DO head straight
for Aosta!
by Kristin Jarratt
Here are a few nice places to have lunch or dinner in town:
Aosta is not known for fabulous hotels. If you want something special,
we suggest you stay outside the town, or you could consider a simple but maniacally clean B&B in town:
There is also an Internet point in town at Via Chambery 55 (tel. 0165-231-830).
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